Food

Paul Flynn: Something warm, comforting and simple to look forward to

Platter of juicy roast chicken, anchovy scented peppers and cooling aioli will go down a treat

Photograph: Harry Weir

Paul Flynn's face
Paul Flynn
Sat Jan 9 2021 - 06:05

If you were to ask me this year would I like to spend half my time at home, chilling, cooking and eating, punctuated with innumerable walks around the countryside in dizzying hoops, I’d say, “You’re grand”.

I couldn’t do it again. I’m optimistic though. I’ve got a family holiday booked for June. I’ll swim there if I have to. I’ve got my eye on a couple of festivals, I’ll bring the campervan for the gang. I hanker for the musky tangle of overloaded limbs and flashback laughter the morning after. The postmortem always occupies the first hours of the next day, supplanted by the anticipation of the upcoming acts, the throb of the music builds, off we go again.

Then there’s the day job. Keeping creative energy going is paramount when you have a restaurant that has been around as long as the Tannery. I’m going to have to figure out how to grow chefs in petri dishes for the coming year. Without a great team, I can’t do any of my globetrotting.

Photograph: Harry Weir

Most of the dishes I write about are made at home. I enjoy the planning and shopping, it takes me out of things. As I shop, I drift into the flavours of the dish. Then I cook them quietly at home.

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These eggs are supremely simple, yet they have texture and bacony depth.  Serve them in the centre of the table, with a bowl of mash.

Photograph: Harry Weir

I love lamb chops, I cook them on the barbecue all year round. They are best with a little char on the outside and a blush in the middle. I diverted to Greece with the accompaniments. I needed the sun.

I’m a root vegetable boy. I make no excuses but I wanted to lighten winter’s dark load. A platter of juicy roast chicken, anchovy tinted peppers and cooling aioli did the trick. I’m making the aioli. It’s worth it. If you don’t fancy making it, add some olive oil, lemon and finely crushed garlic to good shop bought mayo.  There is a little challenge here. You will need to spatchcock the chicken, but if you prefer, your butcher will do it for you with no difficulty.

Recipe: SWIRLED EGGS, CRUNCHY BACON CRUMBLE

Recipe: GRILLED LAMB CHOPS, CARAMELISED ONION, BUTTERBEAN AND FETA BAKE

Recipe: CHOPPED ROAST CHICKEN, AIOLI, RED PEPPER AND ANCHOVY DRESSING

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