We were very lucky to get to Rome a few weeks ago for a much appreciated weekend away. I always consult Katie Parla’s website whenever I’m there. She pointed me towards Armando del Pantheon some years ago, the trattoria of my dreams. This time, unfortunately, it was closed for summer holidays, so we went to Roscioli on the Saturday, but Sunday was difficult as most places were shut.
We had been to the lovely Antico Arco on our last trip to Rome, but I really wanted somewhere more rustic and cacophonous. After much deliberation, I settled on Caesare al Casaletto, a raved-about, simple restaurant in the suburbs. It was very far out – end-of-the-tramline out – but it was exactly what we wanted. We heard it before we saw it; the chatter drifted into the night and drew us in. We sat in a twinkly courtyard, full of boisterous Italian families.
The menu was cavernous; I could have got lost in it. I meekly asked for an English version, and we seemed to be the only people that weren’t Italian, a good sign.
I spotted a coratella, a dish of lamb offal, heart, lungs, spleen and liver. I left that for another time, but it did reassure me that I was in for a true taste of Rome. We ordered more than we needed, more out of curiosity than hunger. Among the delicious fritti there was deep-fried gnocchi in a caccio e pepe sauce.
I couldn’t find a recipe for it, so I’m making a stab at it here. It’s pretty good, but I don’t think I can replicate it, because what made it so special was the atmosphere at that restaurant. It works with shop-bought gnocchi, but it’s better if you go the extra mile and make it your own.
The butternut squash dish is seasonal, gentle and pleasing. Perfect for a chilly autumn day.
I love pastry, and the gooey onion filling of these tarts and the sweet and sour dressing evoke the flavours of Sicily. The ricotta is a creamy and appropriate foil to provide a little of that special comfort that only Italian food can give.
Recipe: Fried gnocchi with cacio e pepe sauce
Recipe: Roasted butternut squash, penne, goat’s cheese and hazelnuts
Recipe: Sicilian onion tarts
