It is a growing irony of Ramadan. From the United Arab Emirates to Egypt, people consume up to three times more during the fasting month than any other month of the year. Surveys in the UAE point to increasing overeating, overspending and wastage as the traditionally light dawn meal – the suhoor – and post-fasting iftar are super-sized.
While traditionally this meal was a light snack of dates and water, a recent poll for Dubai-based Al Aan TV, indicates that the vast majority of UAE residents say binging is the post-fasting norm.
“Ramadan has become the month of feasting,” declares daily paper The National. The trend is being fuelled by the proliferation of lavish spreads laid on by luxury hotels.
Ramadan tent wow-factor competition is mounting. Meals are held in Bedouin-like tents – by the beach or pool, or in the desert. Some are mega-tents seating hundreds, with a decor fit for a film set, a chic-Sheikh look of draped walls, gilt edged furniture and interior fountains.
Live cooking stations, superstar Lebanese performers and soap operas are all part of the fasting-to-feasting fun. So are shisha parlours where revellers smoke flavoured tobacco with the hookah or hubble-bubble water pipe. As well as razzle-dazzle entertainment, the tents offer travellers a great opportunity to enjoy myriad celebratory foods and local staples.
Thousands of sheep, goats, camels and cows are slaughtered for the banqueting – the average fast-breaker consumes about half a kilo of food. Prestigious tents boast dozens of Arabic, Turkish and Egyptian dishes – mixed grill platters, vine leaves, stuffed chicken, sesame pide bread, rose water sweets, sorbets and tahini ice cream.
Most iftar buffets run through Ramadan from sunset to 8.30pm or 9pm, with suhoor served hot on its heels from 2.30am to 3.30am, or 4.30am on weekends.
Arabesque chic
Tahina addicts take note. A showpiece of the white billowy walled Asateer tent at the Atlantis Palm Jumeirah is a fountain from which mellifluous sesame paste flows like Niagara Falls. Big enough for 900 hungry souls, it spreads along the beachfront, with a modern oriental decor. Chocolate-coated dates, macaroons and other iftar treats peer from alcoves of minaret-shaped cake displays. A towering construction of Turkish delight, nougat, dates and baklava tops off the sweet intake. Jumbo-sized Arabic coffee pots or dallahs loom over mosaic patterned brass cooking stations, where toque-wearing chefs whip up lamb ouzi with spiced rice, and sayadiyha fish with caramelized onions. Those who manage to tear themselves away from the food can dabble with PlayStation consoles, traditional Arabic board games and free wifi. Indoor shisha dens or outside "shisha under the stars" is a big part of the Arabic groove on Ramadan nights. Typical shisha menus offer up to 30 flavours including Citrus with Mint, Juicy Watermelon and Classic Cola. Atlantis The Palm, Crescent Road, Palm Jumeirah; +971 4 426 0800; atlantisthepalm.com; iftar sunset buffet AED185/€36.78
Adults-only tent
For a less family-oriented affair than many iftar, the Al Majilis tent at the sprawling coastal Arabian resort Madinat Jumeirah puts a 21-year lower age limit on guests. The most swish colourful jalabiya gowns and abaya cloaks in town turn out for this party. Beneath a massive shimmering star chandelier, dripping with hundreds of diamond-cut crystal beads, the tent's creamy fixtures are set within golden Moorish arches and Jali lattice work. Around the walls, more intimate raised seating areas are soft-lit with pendant lights. The suhoor experience is especially smooth and chilled-out. Crisply presented mezze and shanklish salad of crumbled Lebanese cheese balls, onion, olive oil and parsley are delivered by genial waiters in red Fez hats. Diners down fresh tamarind drinks, soubia made from fermented barley, vegetable juices and warm infusions of rosemary, fennel and mint to offset indigestion. Al Majilis, Madinat Jumeirah, Jumeirah Beach Road; +971 366 6730, jumeirah.com; AED195/€38.77
Ali Baba nights
It's mostly in-house guests and a handful of others who gather at the tent at the Kempinski Hotel Palm Jumeirah, on Dubai's palm tree shaped island. Buffet goers can recline in the tiered Ottoman style seating areas or majilis or swan about the terrace with garden glimpses over the lagoon. Energy rich substances tend to dominate the Ramadan menu including assafiri, a sweet crepe filled with an Arabic cream kashta. Dried fruits and nuts also take central stage as fast fuelling nibbles. Dates are a Ramadan royalty. Some 400 varieties are eaten during the festivities - moulded by chefs into pyramids and other eye catching culinary arrangements. Kempinski Palm Jumeirah, Crescent West, Palm Jumeirah; +971 4 444 2501; kempinski.com; iftar AED180/€35.78
Souk setting
Elegant but sober, the Arabesque themed Ramadan Majilis at Dubai's World Trade Centre is a world away from the fashionable hotel crowd who talk of "aprés iftar" lounging on beachside hotel sofas. The contemporary souk atmosphere of carved trellis tables, white sofas and golden brass lanterns is crowned by a constellation of ceiling lights, casting a blue night light over the gazebo. The award-winning buffet of 50-plus dishes includes Ramadan staples such as kibbeh meatballs in yoghurt sauce, vegetarian potato kibbeh, grilled meats and Halloumi cheese aromatised with fresh thyme. This iftar is considered reasonably priced at AED140/€27.83 compared to AED190-220/€37.77-€43.74 charged by luxury hotels. Ramadan Majilis, Sheikh Saeed Hall 3, World Trade Centre; + 971 4 308 6322 theramadanmajlis.com
Mega tent Abu Dhabi
The Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi hosts the UAE's largest tent – the 25,833 sq ft beachfront pavilion seats 730 guests and hosts up to 1,200 diners a day. The menu takes three months to prepare and 150 chefs to deliver it. As the sun sets, famished fasters descend on the marquee to graze on hot and cold mezze, goat with oriental rice, kebab with saffron and herbs and the ritualistic energy bolstering, apricot Ramadan drink Qamar al Din. Many iftar essentials are super sweet. Kunafa is a cream filled pastry drowned with pistachios and sugar syrup. Qatayef, sometimes called Arabian pancakes, are filled with walnuts or white cheese, fried and dipped in syrup. Emirates Palace, West Corniche Road, Abu Dhabi, +971 2 690 9000; emiratespalace.ae, AED250/€49.70
Hotter than Ben Hur
For a Disneyesque version of a true Arabian tent experience, head to the sand dunes. Not to worry if July temperatures rise towards their usual 108 degrees Fahreheit, the tent at Bab Al Shams Desert Resort is climate controlled. The dune-nudging cooking stations of Al Hadheerah restaurant might be spicy but you can chill inside, says the hotel, entertained by oud players and whirling Sufi style Tanoura dancers – their costumes as bright as spinning tops. Out in the courtyard, between palms, flickering candles and stained glass lanterns, a troupe of cooks whip up regional specialties from barbecued meats to grilled fish, skewered whole chicken, hot breads and baklava. Bab Al Shams Desert Resort, Dubailand; meydanhotels.com, tel: +971 4 809 6194; AED220/€43.74
Sweet and sour
The desert may not be everyone’s Ramadan choice but desserts, yes. Every year the Dubai Health Authority issues pre-Ramadan warnings of excess sweet consumption, as diabetes complications spiral – and those suffering from indigestion and other tummy troubles crowd hospital emergency wards. Meanwhile, waste management companies report food rubbish surging by 10 per cent, with as much as 1,850 tonnes thrown away daily in Dubai and 500 tonnes in Abu Dhabi.
Community tents and Ramadan bazaars
Look beyond hotels for twilight iftar atmosphere. Many convivial public events are organised by city councils, religious associations and embassies. Dubai's Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque feeds up to 15,000 people every night – with platters spread out on Ali Baba like carpets in its car park. The Emirates Red Crescent dish up 800,000 free iftar meals in 112 tents across the UAE during Ramadan. The charitable tents are open to non-Muslims, non-fasters and passers-by.
