From colonial India to grand Victorian breakfast tables, kedgeree has a long history and is believed to originate from "khichari", an Indian dish of rice and lentils. Whenever I spot it on a breakfast menu, I order it – with varying degrees of success. For true kedgeree glory in my books, I want rice that is humming with spice, perfectly poached smoked fish and eggs that teeter on the side of soft boiled.

Melt the butter in a large high-sided saucepan over a medium heat until it is foaming and golden. Add the onion, reduce the heat and sweat gently for about eight minutes until it has softened. Add the rice, garam masala and turmeric and cook gently, tossing until completely coated in the onion and butter for two minutes. Add the stock and stir through. Cover with a lid and allow to cook gently for 15 minutes until all the liquid has been absorbed.

About five minutes before the rice is cooked, stir in the sea salt and black pepper as necessary and lay the haddock fillets over the top, dotting them with a little extra butter. Continue cooking with the lid on until the rice is tender and gently fork the fish through the rice. Serve generous portions on warmed plates topped with parsley, soft-boiled eggs and lemon wedges.