Finally! Spring has arrived. I’m not talking about the calendar spring, the one that occurs in Ireland on February 1st (when we are still in the last throes of winter). I’m talking about the first sight of green vegetables and flowers in the restaurant.

Wild garlic, wild leek, wild pea, little cabbage flowers, sheep’s and wood sorrel: this is Ireland’s early spring bounty – and it is truly wonderful.

We get to grips with spring overnight in the restaurant. Heavy vegetal purée fade suddenly away, giving way to lighter dressing of herbs oils split with homemade rose vinegar. Baby parsnips and baby carrots turn up (pardon the pun). They’re grilled over Irish charcoal until tender and then brushed with wild garlic oil. We poach cod ever so gently, stacking it high with wild sea herbs, such as baby seabeet and sea purslane. Grilled duck goes alongside these tiny things, various baby vegetables seasoned simply with oil, vinegar and salt.

This is my triad when it comes to spring seasoning: lightly oiled and high in acidity to wake up our jaded wintery palette.

It’s good to be small in spring. Every little thing has a joyous sweetness, and the wild meadows hum with herbs ready for picking. Don’t forget the common dandelion. It really needs better PR as it is a hidden treasure for those who love wild greens: some 300-plus varieties, all edible, flower and all. They are a great source of vitamin C. Tossed through a salad, blended with oil to make a bitter dressing; deep fried flowers in buttermilk batter.

If you find yourself in the woods, keep an eye out for wild garlic flowers. They probably won’t have opened yet, but pick a few and pickle them in a sugar, vinegar and water solution (one to one to one, brought to the boil and cooled). These little pickled flowers go wonderfully with poached white fish such as hake, ling or cod.

Take a 150g piece of fish and lower it into warm water. Poach for 3-5 minutes. Season and dress with spring herbs.