Autumn is upon us with its falling leaves, windy streets and cool, dark evenings. As the temperature drops, my head turns to my stomach for comfort. I want something warm, something unctuous. Salads turn to stews and light sauces become laden with the beautiful fat we call butter. Autumn is my favourite time for food.
There is something magical about the ways our woods and fields provide so much bountiful food that sings when cooked together. Pigeon roasted on the bone until rare, wild mushrooms sautéed in duck fat and thyme, pumpkins braised in butter: all these foods make my mouth water and my stomach yearn for a chilly autumn evening when I can sit down and enjoy a plate of these earthly delights.
Pigeon may not by readily available in supermarkets but have a look online for a game supplier in your area. They are definitely there. We use Gourmet Game in the west of Ireland but in the east you'll find Wild Irish Game. Pigeon is usually sold oven-ready on the bone.
To prepare the pigeon, just remove the skin from the breasts. Warm your pan with a little oil. Season the pigeon with sea salt and sear on both sides of the breast. Add in some butter and some thyme and baste the pigeon until the butter turns brown and nutty.
Transfer the pigeon to an oven tray and bake for 5-7 minutes in an oven at 180 degrees. You want the meat to be rare, as pigeon is a very lean bird.
While the pigeon is cooking, throw on another pan for your mushrooms and a pot for your pumpkin. Fry the mushrooms briefly in a little duck fat. They won’t take long. Peel the pumpkin and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Blanch until tender and then dress with some sage and warm butter. Carve the breast off the bone and serve alongside the mushrooms and pumpkin. A little grated roast hazelnut will finish the dish nicely.
