There are some dishes that just beg to be cooked as quickly and painlessly as possible, simply so you can get to the end goal – eating them – as soon as possible. I’m talking here about the kind of thing that involves
minimal effort for maximum results. And, if at the end the dish looks pretty sensational too, then everyone is happy – especially the chef.
Offhand, I can think of several such culinary pleasures – a great steak, say, seared to smoky, yielding perfection, or a piece of fish practically quivering with freshness and then soothed into submission by a beurre blanc or even a squeeze of lemon. And in April, when it’s in season, maybe some steamed asparagus with a blob of hollandaise.
The key to this sort of “simple” cooking is to opt for the very best quality you can afford when choosing the one or two ingredients that take top billing in the recipe. Otherwise you’re in danger of the whole thing being a flop, and when it’s a piece of meat or fish taking centre stage, with few accoutrements, there is no understudy to take their place.
I learned this lesson early on, and my first real adventure came with scallops. Scallops, if not great to start with, will not be coaxed into being any better through cooking. To be the shining stars they should be, they must be perfectly fresh. It’s that simple. Then when you’re cooking them, all you need to do is ensure your pan is hot, hot, hot, and cook them quickly – preferably in butter – for less than a minute each side, before serving them immediately.
Gordon Ramsay once demonstrated this with brilliant simplicity by heating a large pan and slowly placing 12 scallops on it clockwise in a circle. By the time he’d completed his circle, the first scallop was perfectly done on one side, so he just continued around in this fashion until they were all done. The whole thing took less than two minutes.
And it is scallops which this week take their rightful place as the star of a main course which is perfect dinner party fodder if you’re looking for something reasonably light. The romesco sauce is a robust companion, and if you’re after a bit more smokiness, the endive leaves will withstand some chargrilling themselves. And it all looks pretty fabulous on the plate too.
The leftover romesco can be slathered on anything – including sausages, chargrilled chicken or grilled fish. I adore it and used to make it with bread, but have left that out now, so it’s gluten-free to boot.
To finish off with a flourish, I’ve gone for a sticky, soothingly delicious date and apple pudding, just made for winter evenings. All it needs is a smear of crème fraiche or a dollop of vanilla ice cream and you’re set. dkemp@irishtimes.com
