The baby leeks are rolling in from Beechlawn Farm in Ballinasloe. Well, they’re more young than baby, but they do have a beautiful and tender sweetness when grilled.
Why is it that the leek never gets its just dessert? Often it lies idly by, in the bottom of the fridge, waiting for a stock or soup to save it from oblivion. Have you ever cooked a leek in its own right and enjoyed its bittersweet nature?
The Spanish know what I’m talking about. The Catalonians have a beautiful dish of leeks and romesco. They call the baby leeks calçots and they are grilled outdoors over a smouldering barbecue. The whole event is called calçotada and revolves around the grilling, peeling, and eating of these baby leeks. Technically calçots are more like scallion or green onion. It’s important to add that the calçot from Valls is a registered EU Protected Geographical Indication.
In Aniar, we have a solid top, so I cook the leeks directly on the stove. But the process can also be done in a pan. You don’t need any oil. Just place your pan on a medium heat and add the leeks to the pan. Turn them occasionally and allow them to blacken. When I say blacken, I mean blacken. Not brown. Black.
This is important. The blackening helps the flavour of the leek. All the onion family char well and it makes a big difference to the finished flavour. Of course, if you have a barbecue, you can cook the leeks directly over the fire.
How to make romesco The classic sauce that accompanies the calçot is essentially a hazelnut and almond salsa. Blend 100g of toasted hazelnuts and almonds with 500g of tomato passata and six piquillo peppers. Add chopped parsley and mint, sherry vinegar and olive oil to taste and
season with some sea salt. Serve cold with the grilled leeks.
