From aperitif to digestif

You don't have to drink all day on December 25th, but if you want to, Joe Breen knows what should be in your glass

You don't have to drink all day on December 25th, but if you want to, Joe Breen knows what should be in your glass. And don't forget to have the odd glass of water

Every year, columns such as this one take a deep breath and pronounce solemnly on the appropriate wines for Christmas Day. A well-bred sparkler to get things going, a little breather for a nice bracing dry sherry, then break open the Chablis as the smoked salmon arrives. After a decent interval, tuck into the Burgundy, as the turkey, ham, sprouts, buttered carrot and parsnips and roast potatoes, (delete where appropriate) are placed before you. Another decent interval. Then time for a "sticky" to go with the pudding, followed by a glass of lbv Port and the Stilton. Then to the couch, R&R, and then up the next day and do it all over again. But let's put flesh on those bones.

Sparklers: These come in many shapes, sizes and prices. At the top end of the Champagne tree you could get the Krug NV (you don't need to know the price if you can afford it) or perhaps the lovely Bollinger La Grande Année 1995. My default is Roederer NV, a wonderful Champagne, but there is a very reasonable and very good alternative: Jacobs Creek Sparkling Rosé.

• Roederer NV, €45 from On the Grapevine, Dalkey and Booterstown, Co Dublin; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries, Co Dublin; The Vintry, Rathgar, Dublin 6; McCabes, Blackrock, Co Dublin; Patrick Stewart Wines, Sligo; Next-door, nationwide; Mortons, Galway Jacob's Creek Sparkling Rosé, €12-14, widely available.

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Aperitif: Mitchell & Sons has a lovely half-bottle of Fino, Lustau Jarana sherry ("bone-dry, flinty and fine"). One alternative is a glass of Quinta De La Rosa White Port, perhaps with a little tonic, over ice. For more on sherry, see Tom Doorley's article on the following pages.

• Lustau Jarana, €9.95 from Mitchell & Sons. Quinta De La Rosa White Port, €19.95 from Berry Bros & Rudd, Dublin

Chablis: There is an ocean of Chablis out there, or at least there always seems to be at this time of the year. So pick wisely. I tasted a lovely, buttery, basic Chablis 2002 made by Daniel-Etienne Defaix at Domaine Du Vieux Château earlier this year and, though I have tasted more expensive models, I can't remember tasting a better one. An alternative would be the gentle lemon-buttery Saint Romain 2000, Henri de Villamont.

On a totally different tack, the lip-smacking zing of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc in the great-value guise of Astrolab might fit the bill, or perhaps the equally refreshing (and equally good-value) Blackwood Park Riesling 2004 from Mitchelton.

• Domaine Du Vieux Château 2002, €19.99 from Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dawson St, Dublin 2; McCabes, Blackrock & Foxrock, Co Dublin; Jack Carvills, Camden St, Dublin 2; Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh, Dublin 14; Baily Wines, Howth, Co Dublin; McHughs Off-Licence, Kilbarrack Rd & Malahide Rd, Dublin; Shevlins Off-Licence, Rathfarnham, Co Dublin; Sweeneys, Glasnevin, Dublin 9; World Wide Wines, Waterford; The Vineyard, Galway
• Saint Romain 2000, Henri de Villamont, €17.99 from Cheers, Delgany, Co Wicklow; Mortons, Dunville Avenue, Dublin; Worldwide Wines, Waterford Astroblab 2005, €12.99 (Christmas offer) from O'Brien's
• Blackwood Park 2004 Riesling, €7.99 (sale price) from Dunnes Stores

Burgundy: It is one of the sad facts of life that there are few, if any, Burgundies that are both cheap and good. If you don't want to spend €60-plus for the impressive Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-Saint-George 1999, for example, the Chassagne-Montrachet Pinot Noir 2002 from Roger Balland is a very good alternative for less than half the price, as is Chanson Beaune Clos du Roi 2000. Ditto the sensual and elegant Chambolle-Musigny 2000, Nicolas Potel - a name on the rise in Burgundy. For those on a tighter budget, the great-value Chilean, Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2003 is right on the money.

• Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-Saint-George 1999, €67.49 from Redmonds of Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Thomas's Foxrock, Co Dublin; Bin No. 9, Clonskeagh, Dublin 14; and selected independents
• Chassagne-Montrachet Pinot Noir 2002, €25.95, and Chanson Beaune Clos du Roi Premier Cru 2000, €19.99 (Christmas offer), both from O'Brien's nationwide Chambolle-Musigny 2000, Nicolas Potel €32.95 from Berry Bros & Rudd, Harry Street, Dublin 2 Cono Sur Pinto Noir 2003 (€7.99 widely available).

Stickies: Still awake? Dessert wines are often an afterthought, but they deserve better. Château Climens 1999, a Barsac Grand Cru Classé, is a very serious wine with aromas of honey and pear balanced by good acidity and a luxurious finish, while the darker tangerine hues of Château Roumieu 2001, with persistent flavours of burnt orange and vanilla, should help enliven grandma's pudding. The budget offering here is the ever reliable Brown Brothers' Orange Muscat & Flora 2004.

• Château de Climens 2001 (37.5cl), €38 from Cheers, Delgany, Co Wicklow; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock, Co Dublin; and www.jnwine.com. Château Roumieu 2001 (75cl), €25.95 from O'Brien's, nationwide Brown Brothers' Orange Muscat & Flora 2004 (38cl), €10.15 from Superquinn, nationwide

Port: Poor old Port has lost some of its lustre in recent years, but it remains a bewitching drink, once you select the right bottle. Ramos Pinto Late Bottled Vintage 1998 is one that certainly fits the bill as does the really classy Niepoort Colheita 1991.

• Ramos Pinto Late Bottled Vintage 1998, €24 from Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Country Choice, Nenagh, Co Tipperary; The Bottle Shop Lucan, Co Dublin; Louis Albrouze Wines, Leeson St, Dublin 4. Niepoort Colheita 1991 from Wicklow Wine Co and Mitchells.