Snap up the first of the new season asparagus, broad beans and peas, writes Hugo Arnold
I have been stewing baby broad beans in their pods with olive oil and new season garlic for the past few weeks, an Egyptian way with these young beans that goes as well with fish or meat. New-season lamb cutlets roasted pink and served with a dill-rich yoghurt, roasted John Dory dusted with spices, and cumin and fennel are current favourites.
Next up are the new peas, their pods still thin enough to benefit from the aforementioned treatment. Otherwise, fashion them into a purée, using some of the pods too, and a great deal of peppery mint. Some light chicken stock could turn it into a soup; otherwise a thicker purée goes well with seasonal lamb, or maybe chicken.
I have been eating white asparagus from France already. This version needs peeling before cooking in plenty of salted water. But with some unsalted butter, it is a delicious starter.
Now is the time of year when we seem to be heading into a celebration of vegetables. I know those broad beans have come in from Italy, ditto the peas, but we are all part of Europe now, and let's face it, even with polytunnels, we would still be waiting around for weeks to enjoy peas in this country.
For risotti, the broad beans and peas get given an added kick from parsley, dill, sage and even tarragon for an aniseed finish. I am coating pasta with just-crisped pancetta and carefully shelled broad beans. If just peas are to hand, why not have risi e bisi, a dish that is hard to describe other than as a sloppy risotto.
Broad beans and pecorino are a great way to start a meal. Guests can shell the beans themselves. Young beans will be enjoyable with their overcoats on, but once they reach maturity those skins have to go. It's a chore best shared with guests and family; many hands make light work.
A thick pea purée alongside sautéed scallops is one of my favourite starters at this time of year. Pea soup is hard to beat, particularly when spiked with a zesty pile of sorrel, and served cold if the weather permits.
I am all for fresh vegetables, but the pea is not a player. Once it has been picked, its sugars start to turn to starch and within hours you can end up with something distinctly woody. More chefs than might care to admit will be using frozen peas over the coming weeks. The best of them will include some fresh ones as well. Just one of the tricks of the trade.