Q Can you provide advice on how best to deal with cracked chimney liners? My house was built about 15 years ago and has a concrete and clay flue chimney. I burn briquettes in a multifuel stove, but I have recently noticed sand falling down on top of this stove.
Do I need to install a stainless steel flexi liner or an insulated liner? Or do I need to have the chimney relined and rebuilt with modern methods?
AFlue liners in a house built 15 years ago should not be causing trouble at this stage if using standard domestic solid fuel. It may well be an issue of poor workmanship during construction and the builder may have used dry sand as a backing to the flue liners.
Some fireplaces and flues were originally installed for use with gas fires only. Fireplaces installed for use with solid fuel must have heat expansion joints to allow for expansion and contraction.
You will need to organise a camera (CCTV) survey on the flue to establish if the liners are cracked or displaced and the extent of the problem. Have the flue swept ahead of this investigation work.
Check that the size of the current flue liners are suitable and sufficiently sized to facilitate a lining. If the house is only 15 years old, the flue is likely to comprise 200mm (8in) flue liners and may be suitable for lining with an appropriate stainless steel flexi liner.
However, this will reduce the diameter of the flue, thereby affecting the draw on the stove. A diameter of 150mm (6in) is the minimum recommended for a closed appliance up to 20kW-rated output burning coal, peat or seasoned timber.
If the liners are cracked or slightly displaced, then it is possible to line the inside of the flue with a suitable fire cement product repair system.
The worst case scenario is that the badly damaged flues will have to be taken out and rebuilt. This is done from within the room and involves removing blocks in sections and rebuilding the flue, stepping up the chimney breast and opening small sections as you go.
It may even be necessary to do a combination of both relining and rebuilding depending on the condition.
It is important that a liner is maintained in good condition to protect the house from heat transfer and protect the blockwork chimney from the corrosive by-products of combustion.
In addition liners provide a correctly sized flue for optimum efficiency of the stove appliance being vented.
Pat McGovern is a Chartered Building Surveyor and a member of the Society of Chartered Surveyors Ireland scsi.ie
Building a garage
Q There was a recent query about constructing a new garage and I wanted to expand on it a little. I have just agreed to purchase a house that has no garage and I want to build one and a home workshop as well as a boatshed. Both requirements are in the region of 50sq m, totalling 100sq m either together or separately. To keep costs to a minimum, I was considering the agricultural style of steel frame/steel sheet construction. It has been suggested to me that this type of kit building is less subject to planning but I haven't found anything concrete (pun intended).
The new building(s) will be at the back of the property and the only immediate neighbour is already behind a 2m high boundary wall. Also, I wonder if this style of building could then be eligible for the Home Renovation Incentive scheme or if only traditional construction would qualify.
A The Planning and Development Regulations allow certain exempt development works to be carried out around the house. This means that formal planning permission is not required. The regulations recognise various classes of development.
Each class of development has conditions and limitations on what is considered acceptable and these are clearly set out in a schedule in the regulations. If one moves beyond these restrictions, the works are no longer exempt.
Garages and domestic stores of the type you describe are termed “Class 3” development and are restricted to a floor area of 25sq m if they are to be deemed exempt development. Therefore, your proposed storage shed measuring 100sq m will need planning permission.
Larger agricultural buildings are permitted as being exempt. Again restrictions apply. These buildings are considered Class 6 and must be for agricultural use. They must form part of a farmyard complex. They must also be a minimum distance of 100m from nearby dwellings.
In an urban setting, as you described, an agricultural-style building would not be appropriate. Typically, planning authorities will place conditions on permitted development in terms of finishes and materials. Metal sheeting would not be acceptable as a wall cladding. This is to ensure the new building matches the house it serves. This allows the new structure to blend in with its surroundings.
The Home Renovation Incentive (HRI) applies to works around the house and does cover garages. The form of construction and finish used is not a hindrance to the application of the scheme. It should be possible, therefore, to recoup some of your expenditure through the initiative.
The form of construction and finish will, however, have an impact in terms of planning, and your application should clearly set out what materials you wish to use. Where possible you should match the materials already used in your new home.
You should also contact a suitably qualified designer to assist with your planning application.
Very useful guidance and further information about the HRI is available on the website of the Society of Chartered Surveyors Ireland at www.scsi.ie.
Noel Larkin is a Chartered Building Surveyor and a member of the Society of Chartered Surveyors Ireland scsi.ie
Legal boundaries
QI would like to know if my fence would be considered as being owned by one party or both parties. In other words, is it a "party fence" or not?
A The location of the line which defines the title boundary between two properties – ie the legal boundary – determines whether or not a wall or fence separating the properties is a party wall or fence. If the wall/fence is built on the legal boundary, such that part of it is on either side of the legal boundary, then it is a party wall/fence.
To determine the precise location of the legal boundary, it is necessary to consult the deed map. If it does not have dimensions or is not sufficiently detailed, an on-site inspection by a chartered surveyor and a determination of what has been the “settled” boundary or accepted boundary between the parties is necessary. An original site plan or Land Registry map (albeit nonconclusive in relation to boundaries) may be useful.
Without the benefit of the foregoing information, the following interpretation is subject to the limitations of the information available from the photograph you have supplied.
The photograph (right) shows two attached houses: House A (left side as viewed) and House B (right side). From the method by which they appear to have been constructed, including a single-storey extension to House A adjoining the two-storey side wall of House B and the corresponding alignment of the decorative black-painted quoins on House B, it appears the legal boundary runs along the outer face of the side wall of House B, ie the inner face of the side wall to House A.
This interpretation is supported by the extent of the concrete area/driveway to the front of House A. The outer edge alignment of the concrete area/driveway is a continuation of the alignment of the outer face of the side wall of House B.
The timber fence in question is erected tight against the edge of the concrete driveway, but not over it. It is located entirely in the property of House B. The timber fence is, therefore, not a party fence. Prior consultation with neighbours is strongly advised if intending to construct a boundary fence near the legal boundary and prior agreement is necessary if constructing on or over the legal boundary.
Patrick Shine is a Chartered Geomatics Surveyor, a Chartered Civil Engineer and a member of the Society of Chartered Surveyors Ireland. scsi.ie
