WINE No wine can remain in fashion for ever, so what will become our new favourite 'vin du jour'? 'For a few years, it seemed Pinot Grigio would become the new "vin du jour"; certainly sales to the US have rocketed in recent years, and every country is trying to make their own version', writes John Wilson.
DO YOU HAVE an image of the typical Irish wine drinker? If it is a pin-striped businessman imbibing claret over an expense account meal in one of Dublin's top restaurants, then you should think again. A more accurate picture would be of a group of fashionable 30-something women, sipping a chilled glass of white at a casual home gathering of some sort. The massive increase in Irish wine consumption since 1990 has largely been driven by 25-45 year old women, who see wine as a pleasant beverage to drink on its own, either in the burgeoning number of wine bars, pubs or, increasingly, at home.
Ten years ago, this group made Chardonnay the first grape variety to be asked for by name. Instead of demanding a brand or a country, Chardonnay became a catch-all style. After a while, many realised that ordering Chardonnay could be tricky; some were light and fruity, but others were alcoholic powerhouses, and full of oak; difficult wines to stomach without a plate of food. And so they moved on to Sauvignon.
Sauvignon is perfectly suited to the modern wine drinker. It is generally light in alcohol (from 12%-13.5%), aromatic with plenty of fresh, clean fruits. It is rarely oaked, or too heavy. It can be drunk on its own, with fish, seafood and chicken, and is very good with leafy salads and dips. Sauvignon is the lifestyle drink, the wine that fits into every occasion for the modern girl around town. It is certainly the best seller in every wine bar.
Marlborough in New Zealand leads the pack with its intensely aromatic, lime-tinged style; Sancerre, the choice of the traditionalist, comes next, drier and less obvious; the bargain-hunter seeks out Chile, for its riper and rounder flavours, whilst the more adventurous might look to South Africa, now making some of the best Sauvignon around.
But what will follow Sauvignon? No wine can remain fashionable for ever; just look at what happened to Beaujolais Nouveau, Soave and Muscadet. Sauvignon has its limitations. Are we witnessing the slow death, through boredom, of Sauvignon? Erik Robson, who runs the various branches of Ely wine bars, is quite clear. "Sauvignon is certainly not going out of fashion. Currently our biggest seller is Sauvignon, and the best-selling Sauvignon comes from New Zealand; that makes up a huge percentage of what we sell. Customers may experiment with other wines, such as Riesling or Grüner Veltliner, but Sauvignon from Sancerre to New Zealand, and everything in between, still rules the roost."
That seems fairly cut and dry. And yet, a wine retailer I talked to last week commented that some of his customers were beginning to look for an alternative.
Could this be a new trend, and will the new Sauvignon please stand up? What wine will become the new tipple of the sipping classes? It will probably be white, although sales of rosé wines are increasing worldwide. For a few years, it seemed Pinot Grigio would become the new "vin du jour"; certainly sales to the US have rocketed in recent years, and every country is trying to make their own version. But like Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio varies in style a lot, and can taste pretty awful at the cheaper end.
Wine buffs like myself earnestly hope that Riesling will finally take off, but then we have been that way for the last decade. On the optimistic side, sales of dry German Riesling have increased massively in the US and in Scandinavia. New Zealand Riesling has become fashionable here, so if we could just get over our prejudices, and the Germans improved their labelling, a whole new world would open up.
The other "hot" white grape in the US is the Austrian grape Grüner Veltliner, known there as Gruvee. But we are unlikely to limit ourselves to one country. On trend I do predict is the rise of lower alcohol wines; last year UK retailer Marks & Spencer announced that they would concentrate on less alcoholic wines; both they and Australian producers are now selling low-alcohol wines.
The truth is, Sauvignon seems destined to remain our first choice. For the more adventurous amongst you, the problem is not a lack of choice, but the opposite. Virtually every country and wine region has their own version of fresh and fruity, some good, others less so. But because they are distinctly local, often with an unfamiliar name, they are a much harder sell. Below, I list four very different examples of fresh, dry whites. There are plenty more too, and with the summer months approaching, I will make a point of featuring them.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Brokenwood Hunter Valley Semillon 2007, Australia, 11% (€18.99).The Hunter Valley is home to some of the most amazing Semillon; with age they become hugely complex wines with flavours of toast, grilled nuts and lanolin etched on to a background of taut citrus acidity. This, however, is a young example, fresh lean and spare, with mouth-watering, zesty melon fruits. Try it with any seafood. Stockists: Eno Wines, IFSC and Monkstown; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Jus De Vin, Portmarnock; The Hole in the Wall, D1.
Prova Régia Bucelas 2006, Estremadura, Portugal 12.5% (€12.99).If this wine were from anywhere other than Portugal, it would be a best seller. As it is, a growing group of aficionados have latched on to the Prova Régia, enjoying its light but succulent red apple fruits, and fresh summery nature. Why don't you join them? This is an anytime wine, to be cracked open with friends when a glass of something easy-drinking, but slightly up-market, is called for. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair; O'Briens Wine Off-licences; Mitchell, Rathfarnham; The Bottle Shop,Goatstown; Fresh Outlets; Bin No. 9; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Fallon and Byrne and others independent wine shops.
Terri Cortesi Moncaro, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, 2006, 12.5% (€12-13).The Italians do a great line in easy, lightly fruity whites that go perfectly with most plain seafood dishes. This is a classic example of the genre; light fresh melons and pears that sit perfectly on the palate, then slip down on a pleasantly dry finish. I would prefer this to most Pinot Grigios around. Stockists: Gibneys, Malahide; Mitchells, Glasthule; Cellars The Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Road; or Wine Experience Italia, 087 9066187.
Caves de Turckheim Riesling Réserve 2005, Alsace, 12% (€13.95-14.95).The Caves de Turckheim is one of the most consistent producers in Alsace, making textbook examples of each grape variety. This Riesling has real appeal - lovely soft ripe apple fruits, backed up by some lemon zest, and a dry finish. Perfect with seafood, fish or chicken. Stockists: Sheils Off-Licence, D1; Carvills Camden St, D2 ; Lilac Wines, D3; Savages, Swords; Holland, Bray; Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; Morton's, Galway; Foley's, Sligo.
A few of my favouritesWine and rugby are two of life's great pleasure for me. I often manage to combine the two on trips abroad, which adds to the experience, and sometimes to the cellar as well. I like to meet the people behind the wines, rather than just taste the product; it makes it much more personal and memorable, writes Sean O'Neill.
South Africa draws me the most, through former rugby players I got to know, Jan Boland Coetzee and Hempies du Toit, both ex-Springboks, who stand out as great characters and sublime winemakers. If you visit South Africa, be sure to seek out the wines of Vriesenhof/Paradyskloof and Annandale!
Wine was always designed to go with food, and I lean towards the classic French wine producing areas, Bordeaux for reds, Burgundy for whites. However, through holidaying in the Rhône Valley, I discovered Vacqueyras, a terrific dinner red, and the Rasteau and Châteauneuf of Domaine Beaurenard. Last September, I went on rugby pilgrimage to Bordeaux; the rugby was disappointing, the wine was not! The highlight was a day spent in the village of St Emilion; a case of Pomerol arrived home before I did.
Wearing my rugby hat, I act as wine buyer for my club, De La Salle Palmerston, and at last season's annual dinner, we served the wines of Nico van der Merwe, another South African with extensive training in France. They went down very well.
My favourite wine shop is Wicklow Wine where Michael and Ben give a personal service and import many wines directly. I especially like the Mâcon-Lugny Domaine Saint Denis, the only small producer in Lugny. For reds, the Brouilly of Jean-Claude Lapalu is terrific.
Relaxing at home, I enjoy value red wines like Corbieres and Minervois, and for summer whites, the Chablis of Louis Michel is great with food or as an aperitif.
Sean O Neill is president of De La Salle Palmerston Football Club
Mâcon-Lugny Domaine Saint Denis 2004, 12.7% (€17.95).Stockists: Wicklow Wine Co.; Red Island, Skerries; Listons, Camden St.; Partridge's, Gorey; Probus Wines, Galway.