"In time of gloom, spend," couturier Jen Kelly advises Deirdre McQuillan
WHEN IT COMES to the frill of the frock, there's no better person to deliver the "wow" factor than couturier Jen Kelly, particularly in the handsome setting of his historic North Great George's Street home and headquarters. No matter what the season, there's the classic hourglass shape, the "picture frame" collar and décolleté emphasising the female silhouette in seductive fabrics such as duchesse satin, silk shantung or embossed organza with tactile as well as visual appeal. It's no wonder his customer list includes brides-to-be and their proud mothers, along with a celebrity list - that includes Celia Larkin and Princess Nura of Saudi Arabia - all looking for standout pieces.
His latest creations, such as the slithery leopard-print silks fashioned into two-piece ensembles or full-length gowns, certainly have predatory power.
"For me, the challenge is to make leopard print classic with the addition of a black satin or organza opera jacket, because otherwise it can be too vampy," he says. Many clients have already been seduced by this fabric made to correspond exactly to the animal skin patterning.
Fabric, in fact, can change everything. "A frivolous two-piece can be made in a simple flannel and take on a whole new look," says Kelly. Known for classic cashmere coats and suits ("I am very good at coats and things that are luxurious but basic"), party dresses "come easily", he says, recalling a wedding dress for a customer that had to be made in three days and sent to New York after seeing the bride once. "That scared me," he says. Current trends in wedding dresses are still for conventional creams and white, with silver, metallic and platinum "the new vibe," he says.
His cheerful, easygoing manner and close relationship with clients belies an inner resilience attributable to his Derry background and education. Carrying on an haute couture trade in a time of economic downturn demands the kind of forceful determination that has characterised his attitude and approach to his business since he made his Dublin debut more than 20 years ago. When it comes to his work, he is deadly serious. "My craft is haute couture and bespoke will last forever. In times of gloom, spend," is his advice.
Customers can make up their own minds at his invitation-only fashion show to be held next week in the candlelit splendour of 50 North Great George's Street.