FOOD:A recipe that works with pretty much any type of fish, and a fruity coconut rice salad to go with it
SOMETIMES, I FEEL I don’t have enough fish recipes in here each week, or that when I do, it’s usually for salmon. I suppose this is because underneath it all, I feel a bit guilty encouraging people to eat fish willy-nilly, because the ocean and fish stocks are in such big trouble.
In my mind, fish is a bit of a luxury but I don’t put salmon in that same luxury category because it seems particularly hardy, does well as a farmed fish and seems to be pretty bountiful, unlike cod or tuna, for example. But if you can get hold of fish from smaller fishmongers who are selling directly from smaller boats, then go for it. It’s just that when I see piles of mediocre, small, truly lifeless fish in large supermarkets, piled on top of shards of ice, I’m sure there’s a better way of managing and selling fish.
I try to eat fresh or smoked mackerel and sea trout – mainly for the evil-fighting, power-effects on our blood and brains and the fact that they too, aren’t so popular and so not in as much danger as other species.
I don’t know how many times we’ve tried to put grilled fresh mackerel on as specials in the restaurants and wonder why they don’t sell better. People just want to eat the fancier varieties: put some turbot or sea bass on and they fly out the door. Mackerel, like lesser known cuts of beef, is still considered peasant food.
I’ll happily admit that Dover sole, simply grilled or pan-fried, sprinkled with lemon juice and black pepper and served with a side order of creamed spinach and skinny chips and some sort of lemon butter sauce (the Wolesley restaurant in London does a killer version) is heavenly. But when you think of these poor suckers literally getting hoovered off the sea floor with big industrial vacuums, the guilt can be too consuming (unless you’re eating line-caught fish). I can’t decide whether or not I should stick my head in the sand or else sign up for membership of the vegetarian society.
When dealing with these issues, there’s anger and frustration on all sides: botched EU policies, consumer demands, fishermen’s livelihoods and environmentalists. It’s back to the guilt about food that many of us have nowadays because we know too much, or maybe too little, if one was predisposed towards the greener argument.
Either way, be assured that I’m not a total carnivore, I do love fish and most of the salmon recipes that appear can usually be made with any kind of fish you like.
Korean salmon
Serves two
400g salmon fillets, skin removed
4 tbsp light sesame oil
50ml soy sauce
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
good pinch chilli flakes
black pepper
1 tbsp black or white sesame seeds
2 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
Cut the salmon into big chunks, or you can leave it whole. You’ll have enough marinade to do a third 200g fillet, but if you want to serve more than that, you’ll need to double the marinade quantities.
Mix all the other ingredients together and marinate the fish for a few hours, or overnight. Cook on a wire rack, under a hot grill, until the fish is charred and cooked through.
You can baste the fish with extra marinade while it is cooking. Serve with some chopped spring onions and a salad.
Mango and coconut rice salad
The lovely Maisha Lenehan gave me this recipe, which I think originated with the London deli, Ottoleghi. She says it has converted her to rice salads, which must mean it’s good, as they’re usually deathly dull. Serves four to six
100g jasmine rice
1 tsp butter
salt
150ml water
150g red Camargue rice
1 red pepper, thinly sliced
bunch mint, finely chopped
bunch coriander, finely chopped
1 bunch spring onions, finely chopped
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
zest and juice of 2 lemons
1 medium mango, finely diced
100g salted peanuts
50g flaked coconut
handful deep-fried shallots, optional (available from Asian markets)
Cook the jasmine rice with the butter, a pinch of salt and 150ml water, until it is tender.
In a separate saucepan, cook the Camargue rice in twice its volume of water, until it is tender. Drain and rinse both types of rice under cold water and set aside.
Mix with the rest of the ingredients, season well and serve.
See also www.itsa.ie
