Making merry

Whatever your budget, there are bottles to make Christmas go with a bang, writes Joe Breen

Whatever your budget, there are bottles to make Christmas go with a bang, writes Joe Breen

Holy Christmas. What do you drink, when do you drink it, what do you drink it with and what should you pay for it? To help come up with some answers, we have divided our favourite Christmas Day wines into three groups - budget, flush and loaded.

Christmas Day is not necessarily the best occasion for uncorking the prized vintage that you have secreted away for years. You want something that adds to the occasion rather than compete with it, so mix it up and have fun. That is why we have started with a sparkler. Then, to go with the smoked salmon or fish-based dishes that many people have as a starter, we've picked white wines - although, whatever you have to eat, a good Riesling or Burgundy should fit the bill.

And so to the turkey and ham. Some folks plump for a rich Chardonnay, in the shape of a good Burgundy or a big New World varietal, such as Cantena from Argentina. I always go for a Pinot Noir, in the form of a good Gevrey-Chambertin or, perhaps, something from Otago. Others prefer a light Bordeaux, but that is possibly better with spiced beef the next day.

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With pudding or dessert, it is always worth spending a few extra euro on a good dessert wine or, to lighten the tone, a Moscato d'Asti.

By now the going is getting tough, so repair to the fireside for a vintage or tawny port. Take a short break, then settle down to a glass of something special, such as Martell XO brandy.

This is all in my dreams, of course. In our house I cook the dinner, so I'm lucky to snatch a glass of anything between pots and plans.

St Stephen's Day is the time for the good stuff - the Côte Rotie you've kept under wraps or the Meursault that's been buttering you up for ages.

For a party, try the fantastic-value reds Palo Alto Reserva 2005(€7.95 during December, Dunnes) and Veranda Pinot Noir 2004(down to €9.99, Superquinn), plus Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine Côtes du Rhône 2005(€10.99, Enowine, Dublin 1 and Monkstown, Co Dublin). For whites, Pirque Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006(€8.79, Marks & Spencer) and Delheim Three Springs White 2006(€8.99, O'Briens) are worth investigation. For sparkle, look no further than Jacob's Creek Sparkling Rosé(€13, widely available).