Eating in: It's hard to find and tricky to cook, but onglet rewards your efforts
Sometimes it's known as "butcher's cut", because butchers used to save it for themselves. Otherwise it's known as skirt or onglet, and it comes in thick and thin versions. It's a cut of beef that's not easy to find - generally you need an old-fashion butcher, someone who buys in whole carcasses and, well, butchers them, and if you want some you will probably have to give him advance warning.
Skirt is boneless, with interleaved layers of fat that contribute to its enormous flavour and succulence, but it is tricky to cook. It responds well to a bit of rough and tumble, quickly grilled or fried over a high heat, or you can go for a gentler approach, which takes time but will yield a superb carbonnade or daube.
Beef and horseradish are one of most perfect food partnerships. I can hardly bare to eat one without the other. If you can find fresh horseradish, grating it will be a whole lot easier with a Microplane grater, a gadget that has done for grating what the wheel did for transport. Recipes serve four
SAUTEED ONGLET WITH BANANA SHALLOTS
1kg small banana shallots
olive oil
1 tbsp caster sugar
1kg thick skirt, in one piece
1 glass Madeira
200ml chicken stock (if you are using a stock cube, be aware of the salt content)
large sprig of rosemary
Peel the shallots. Put them in a pan and drizzle generously with olive oil. Add the sugar, season with salt and pepper and roast in a preheated oven, at 200 degrees/gas six, for 30-40 minutes. The shallots, which will end up golden brown and soft, will need turning two or three times.
Season the meat generously with salt and pepper. Heat three tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy frying pan and saute for five or six minutes on each side over a moderate to high heat. Remove the meat from the pan and, vitally, allow it to rest for at least 10 minutes. Pour off any fat from the pan, return it to the heat and pour in the Madeira. Allow it to bubble for a minute or two, then add the chicken stock and rosemary and reduce over a high heat until it is syrupy. Pour the sauce through a strainer and keep it warm. Carve the meat on the diagonal and serve with the shallots and sauce.
BRAISED LEEKS WITH CHOPPED EGG AND PARSLEY
6 leeks, trimmed and cut into 4cm lengths
olive oil
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
2 lemons, trimmed and halved
Wash the leeks - well if there is any sign of grit; otherwise a good rinse should do. Cover the bottom of a shallow pan with a thin layer of olive oil. Stand the leeks upright in the pan, season them with salt and pepper, cover and simmer over a gentle heat for 10-15 minutes, or until they are tender. Remove from the heat and allow them to cool.
Place the leeks on a shallow serving plate, or divide between four plates, with a little of the cooking juices. Drizzle more olive oil over the top, then scatter the chopped egg and parsley on top and season with salt and pepper. Serve with lots of bread and half a lemon per person.
APPLE AND ALMOND TURNOVERS
4 eating apples, peeled, cored and sliced
juice and zest of 1 lemon
400g puff pastry
100g membrillo (quince paste), available from delicatessens and cheese shops, thinly sliced
40g blanched almonds
1 egg yolk beaten with a tablespoon of milk
caster sugar
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees/gas six. Toss the apples with the lemon juice and zest and a tablespoon of sugar. Roll the pastry out and cut out four 15-centimetre circles. Lay a mound of apples in one half of each circle, making sure to leave a one-centimetre border around the edge. Lay the slices of membrillo on top and scatter the almonds over this.
Brush the edges of each circle with the egg wash, fold over and seal firmly, pressing the pastry down. Cut a couple of slits in the tops of the pastries and transfer them to a baking dish. Brush with the remaining egg and sprinkle a teaspoon of caster sugar over the top. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Serve with lots of cream.