Clinking bottles make welcome gifts – just choose carefully writes Mary Dowey.
No doubt about it, bottles make great presents – instantly consumable, and it doesn’t matter about duplication. All you have to do is decide whether the recipient is fairly mainstream in drinking tastes or a bit offbeat, then match your budget to the possibilities below.
You’ll notice that the selection is mainly Old World. Wine merchants tell me that, when it comes to buying bottle presents, most customers feel more comfortable with established European classics, and indeed even some European eccentricities, than with New World wines – no matter how famous they may be. There seems to be a perception that the Old World, and France in particular, is that bit more sophisticated.
Who am I to paddle a fragile canoe against a tidal wave of seasonal preference? Champagne is almost always welcome, from a stocking-friendly snipe to an eight bottle Methuselah. Just make sure you pick a decent marque and non-vintage will be fine. Pol Roger, Bollinger, Roederer, Veuve Clicquot, Charles Heidsieck, Billecart-Salmon, Ruinart ... all are an absolute treat, if funds don’t stretch to Salon or Krug.
QUIRKILY FABULOUS
WHITE
Pieropan Soave Classico 2003. Dare to give a bottle that proves how sensational Soave can be. With layers of intense flavour and a refreshing, citrussy lift making for perfect balance, this is pure hedonism. From Cabot & Co, IFSC; On the Grapevine, Dalkey & Booterstown; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Grape Escape, Lucan; Murtaghs, Enniskerry; Wicklow Wine Co; World Wide Wines, Waterford, about €16.50.
Clos de Saint Yves Savennières, Domaine des Baumard 2000. The sort of secret wine buffs love to keep to themselves: the Loire appellation of Savennières is so tiny that there isn’t that much of its prized output to go round. This is a fabulous example – oozing ripe, honeyed fruit, but it dances across the tongue, ending up bone dry. From Louis Albrouze, Leeson St; Vintry, Rathgar; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; McCabes, Mount Merrion & Gables, Foxrock; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Red Island, Skerries; Wicklow Wine Co; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar, €17.95-€18.95.
Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2002. Only six per cent of Châteauneuf’s wines are white, but they can be stunning, either in youth or after six or seven years. This delicious version – mouthfilling yet refreshing, and more affordable than most – would make a great turkey treat for any white wine fan. From McCambridges, Galway, €23.95.
RED
Château Viella Madiran Tradition, Alain Bortolussi 2001. Madiran in south-west France is another little region that provides a welcome alternative to mainstream reds – especially in winter. This is a comfort blanket of a wine, warm and enveloping, with fantastic raisiny richness. A great buy at the price. From Brechin Watchorn, Ranelagh; Red Island, Skerries; Wicklow Wine Co; Vineyard, Galway; Wine Experience, Carrick-on-Shannon; Artisans, Athlone; Probus Wines, Oughterard; Wine Cluster, Moycullen, €12.99-€14.99.
Torbreck Steading, Barossa Valley 2002. Most bottles from hugely acclaimed Australian cult winery Torbreck come at prices too high to contemplate (RunRig is about €130). But here’s a smashing Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre blend with the same super-smoothness and a generous dollop of the same richness, for a more modest outlay. Perfect for turkey, too. From O’Briens, €28.95.
Monpra Langhe Rosso, Conterno Fantino 2000. Some very exciting wines are beginning to arrive from Piedmont’s Langhe region, the home of Barolo. This stirring blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon from a top producer is one whose pure, plummy flavours explode on the palate. From Sheridans Cheesemongers, South Anne St, Pembroke Lane & Galway, €34.75.
CLASSICALLY CLASSY
WHITE
Domaine des Brosses Sançerre, Alain Giraud 2003. You can’t go wrong with good Sançerre. Pick your way through the minefield of nasties to seize on this flavoursome, finely-tuned example. From Donnybrook Fair; Drinks Store, Manor St; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Martha’s Vineyard, Rathfarnham; Mill, Maynooth; Vineyard, Galway; Cana, Mullingar, about €16.95.
Georg Breuer Terra Montosa Rheingau Riesling 2002. Topnotch German Riesling has clung on to its status as a great classic, and deservedly so. Buy two bottles of this remarkably luscious, vibrant modern version – one for a very good friend and one for yourself. From Wicklow Wine Co; On the Grapevine Dalkey & Booterstown; Grape Escape, Lucan, about €21.60.
Domaine Raveneau Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux 2001. A fair amount to pay for a white wine, but honestly, Chablis doesn’t come in much more thrilling form than this. Already it holds a kaleidoscope of aromas and flavours, with almost smoky minerality and a hint of the sea hanging over fabulously concentrated fruit. And it’s still a baby. From Redmonds, Ranelagh; McCabes, Mount Merrion & Gables, Foxrock, about €32.50.
RED
Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2002. Well made, well priced, well distributed Chianti Classico from a difficult vintage, with plenty of all-round appeal in its ripe cherry and black coffee richness. From selected Londis & Spar outlets; Higgins, Clonskeagh; Wine Well, Dunboyne; Harvest, Galway; Jaynes, Ennis and others, about €19.99.
Château Barrail du Blanc Saint-Emilion 2000. Beautifully polished wine from the Moueix stable (which is also responsible for Pomerol star Château Pétrus) – already lipsmackingly delicious, so an excellent present for impatient drinkers. From Berry Bros, Harry St, €26.95.
Penfolds St Henri Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2000. Another rather daunting price tag – but sampled alongside the current Penfolds Grange, 1997, at over €200, this more subtle, less muscular wine seemed to me miles more impressive. Perfumed, silky and oh, just plain gorgeous. From McCabes, Mount Merrion & Gables, Foxrock; Claudio’s Wines, George’s St Arcade; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Probus, Oughterard; Next Door, Kilkee; O’Donovans, Cork and others, about €55.90.
WONDERFULLY WACKY
Barolo Chinato Cocchi NV. Barolo flavoured with quinine bark, rhubarb and root ginger, according to ancient tradition. Exotically different – and it goes with chocolate. From Berry Bros, Harry St, 50cl bottle €30.
Kubota Premium Sake. The real thing – a refined treat for sushi fans. From Bubble Brothers, English Market & Marina Commercial Park, Cork, €33.95.