Alexei smiles wryly, preferring not to answer, when asked how such a poor population seems to drive only B MWs, Mercedes and Audis

There's a thriving stolen-car market in Russia's enclave of Kaliningrad, now surrounded by EU member states

There's a thriving stolen-car market in Russia's enclave of Kaliningrad, now surrounded by EU member states. Brussels is worried, reports Nick Paton Walsh in Kaliningrad and Beate Steinhorst in Berlin

Early on Saturday morning, Borisovo second-hand car market on the outskirts of the small Russian enclave of Kaliningrad offers a wealth of bargains. Some of the German-made cars here have new Russian number plates. Some still have German plates. All have ridiculously low price tags.

A top-of-the-range 1998 BMW with tinted windows, leather seats and a CD sound system is going for about €6,300.

Some of Kaliningrad's second-hand car markets are the nexus of eastern Europe's lucrative underground trade in stolen cars. Borisovo epitomises the trade: dealers pay a small fee to put their cars on display, with legal and illegal wares indistinguishable.

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Western intelligence agencies have estimated that 60 to 70 per cent of cars stolen in nearby Germany end up in the Baltic republics or in Russia. Here in Kaliningrad, a town where a doctor earns less than €63 a month, the streets brim with BMWs and Mercedes. In any other former Soviet town, Ladas would still be the order of the day.

The criminal opportunities are created by Kaliningrad's extraordinary location. It's a Russian enclave based on the old east Baltic port of old Königsberg. It's cut off from Russia proper by Poland and Lithuania, two countries about to become EU members in 2004. As a result, western law enforcement is now extremely worried.

The enclave is often used as a pitstop before stolen cars are moved on to the Russian mainland, only a trip across the Baltic republics away.

Western intelligence agencies estimate there are 600,000 stolen cars on Moscow's streets. The city's police say that in a day they may recover as many as 120 cars which are on the Interpol list of missing vehicles.

"Cars can get new documents here, be sold on legitimately and then even stolen again," said Igor Rudnikov, editor of a local newspaper, Noviye Kolyosa, and a member of the Kaliningrad parliament.

"There are many different methods. Some gangs will even steal your car, call you, and ask for a fraction of its original price to return it." Kaliningrad's low salaries and poor infrastructure contributed to the region's massive black economy, Mr Rudnikov said.

The car trade is highly competitive. Last month Alexander Klauser, a mobster involved in the car racket, was shot dead by rivals. A former engineer in a Soviet tank division, Klauser had spent 33 of his 55 years in jail. He was infamous in the black economy, which uses sophisticated chains of thefts, document changes and bribery to ensure that expensive cars stolen in Germany are untraceable by the time they are sold in Russia.

Local police declined to comment on the trade. Techniques are now so sophisticated that regular checks by authorities against Interpol's stolen vehicle list are often fruitless.

THE schemes are as numerous as they are devious. Some cars are stolen to order, and others sold on the open market by legitimate businesses.

Alexei, a taxi driver, bought his shiny red Mercedes for about €3,000. "Cars are cheap here," he said. Kaliningrad benefits from a few tax exemptions and relies heavily on the motor industry, but Alexei still smiles wryly and prefers not to answer when asked how such a poor population seems to drive only BMWs, Mercedes and Audis.

Organised crime is not limited to cars. A litre of vodka, two kilos of sugar and two cartons of cigarettes bought in Kaliningrad can make a €9.50 profit in the richer streets of Warsaw. For many ordinary Kaliningraders, four such trips amount to the equivalent of their monthly wage.

"Kaliningrad is probably the biggest hotspot for organised crime in all of Russia, bigger than Moscow," said a senior western intelligence officer. "The problem is that in 2004 it will be sandwiched right in the middle of the European Union. It has many ports enabling large amounts of trafficking, be that drugs, guns, cars, or people.

"It doesn't have to be illegal goods trafficked illegally - it can be legal goods trafficked illegally, like fags or booze. These all generate profits for the gangs."

- Guardian service