GREAT IRISH DRIVES:The road along by the Twelve Pins offers ample opportunity to stop and marvel at spectacular scenery
THE N59 is one of Ireland’s great roads, running first west from Galway city as far as the western seaboard at Clifden, before swinging northeast and finally north towards Westport on Clew Bay.
Along the way, it traverses some of the finest scenery in the country, almost circumnavigating the Twelve Pins. The two sections – both north and south of the spectacular mountain range – are joined by the R344, which goes past Lough Inagh, through the perfect valley.
For the most spectacular views, I think the valley is best approached from the northern end, the junction of the N344 with the N59 that occurs just a few kilometres to the east of Kylemore Abbey.
Immediately to the south of the R344 rise the Twelve Pins, or Beanna Beola. This area contains the Connemara National Park, 5,000 acres of untamed natural beauty south and east of the Quaker village of Letterfrack, that includes Diamond Hill and four of The Twelve Pins including the tallest, Benbaun (729m). The N344 runs southeast and in turn Benbrack (582m), Bencorrbeg (577m) and Bencorr (711m) rise majestically on its right-hand side, while behind them Benbreen (691m) is also visible.
To the east of the R344 rise the Maumturk Mountains, containing a series of spectacular high peaks, the highest of which is Barrslievenaroy (702m). The whole effect is of a perfect valley reminiscent of a Paul Henry landscape, almost devoid of any sign of human existence other than the road itself. The vista is mesmerising and fills one with a sense of wonder at the unspoilt beauty of this whole region.
Perhaps the most spectacular part of the R344 is the section alongside Lough Inagh (Loch Eidhneach – the ivy lake) with its wonderfully named small islands – Eagle, Otter and the smallest, Man Island. Bencorrbeg, Bencorr and Derryclare (650m) form a fine backdrop to the lake and at the foot of Derryclare Mountain is the Derryclare Nature Reserve. Here, Lough Inagh ends and the southern lake alongside which the road now travels is Derryclare Lough. All too soon, the R344 meets the R59 on the edge of Glendollagh Lough, just a short distance west of the angling centre of Recess.
It’s difficult to convey the unspoilt beauty of the R344. Along its route there are no shops, hardly any houses, no historic monuments, no picnic facilities and no tourist attractions.
It is simply a very ordinary road that happens to travel through an unspoilt valley surrounded by high mountain peaks of unsurpassed beauty, framed by a beautiful lake, all of which serve to remind you – should you need it – that the whole of Connemara is this country’s greatest natural asset.
Should you find yourself in need of a pleasant reminder, or simply should you need to refresh your senses, then drive the R344 soon.