EATING OUT: Chapter One on Parnell Square serves what must be Dublin's best-value haute cuisine, writes Tom Doorley.
Michelin stars are not my thing. Most of my favourite places have yet to be given stellar recognition. In the case of Chapter One on Dublin's Parnell Square - where I have yet to eat a disappointing meal - I'm amazed that it has not been starred by Michelin. Surely it can't be that the inspectors are afraid to go north of the Liffey? Now that Ross Lewis has been joined in the kitchen by Garrett Byrne, formerly of Bruno's in Kildare Street, it can only be a matter of time.
Anyway, this is not just the usual paen of praise for Chapter One. I want to draw your attention to the pre-theatre menu, stripped down to three starters, three mains and three puds, all for €29.50 plus 10 per cent service charge. If this isn't the best-value dinner in Dublin, I'm a legendary exponent of the tango.
Velouté of potato and spring onion, sauté mushroom and Parmesan might be considered a soup but it was much more than the sum of its parts. A cracking stock formed the basis of the broth, served in a mini-tureen, and it was dense with chewy shittake mushrooms and pungent with melted cheese. It was delicate and hearty, impeccably judged, utterly delicious.
Warm asparagus was served with a purée of asparagus, as smooth as it was intense, and a sauce Maltaise (béarnaise sharpened with the juice of blood oranges) made this eminently simple starter really sing.
Confit leg of duck was out of the ordinary, to say the least. For a start, it was not the whole leg. What appeared on the plate was a small rectangle of duck, the fat as crisp as hoar frost, the flesh below meltingly tender but by no means greasy. This was elegant and perfect, the definition of what you don't do at home.
Joining this on the long, rectangular plate were slices of slowly roasted duck breast. I was asked how I wanted this cooked and replied that I would leave this to the kitchen. Unusually, it was not rare. It was cooked to the point where it was done right through but retained its natural moistness. This is what separates the men from the boys: rare duck breast is often a cop-out. The duck came with glazed endive or chicory and a tangy compote of beetroot and red onion. A port jus delivered just the kind of sweetness that duck needs.
Roast hake, served in a slice with the skin upwards, was impeccably cooked: flaking, moist, just done. It was less of a wow than the duck but exceptionally good all the same. A very fine basil purée and a langoustine reduction added punchy flavours without detracting from the simple effect of the fish.
Then came the desserts. I don't generally approve of mucking about with crème caramel, but on this occasion the fortification with lemon delivered a subtle but sharp counterpoint to the richness of the baked custard. If anything, it made it lighter and more ethereal.
Rhubarb and honeycomb crumble, as it was described on the menu, sounded hearty, heavy and a bit strange. On the plate, it was a triumph: a layer of rhubarb and cream surmounted by a kind of celestial ginger nut biscuit, topped with a knockout ice-cream studded with preserved stem ginger. The honeycomb element was like the interior of the best possible Crunchie that you can imagine, crushed and sprinkled on top.
A quick bite before heading off to a show? Not on your Nelly! We lingered over good coffees, enjoying the sense of remarkable well-being, and departed just before 8 p.m. This is the decent thing to do. Chapter One has the goodness to offer a stunning pre-theatre menu but I'm sure they need the tables back.
Speaking of which, the pre-theatre menu is served at 6 p.m. It's not fair on the kitchen to wander in at 6.30. A menu as good as this, and at this kind of price, demands a degree of co-operation on the part of the punter.
The bill, with wine, mineral water and excellent coffee, came to €97.50, which makes it the best-value haute cuisine I have had in a very long time.
WINE CHOICE:
We had the lovely Chinon Cuvée Terroir by Jouget at €35, one of the most fragrant and elegant reds you could wish for. Slightly chilled, it's simply glorious. An Alsaçe white and a Côteaux du Tricastin are well-priced house wines at €20. Other highlights include Oz's best Riesling, Grosset Polish Hill, at €65, the superb Fleurie La Madone at €36, the very affordable and unusual Château Jolys Jurancon Blanc at €28, Hamilton-Russell Pinot Noir (the Cape's best) at €65, Bonterra organic Cabernet at €36 and Château Talbot, in the legendary 1982 vintage, at €400. All in all, an eclectic list with some serious names.
Chapter One, 18/19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1 (01-8732266)