The wines at two recent tastings were so good they could have been doctored, writes Joe Breen
Whatever about the reputed medicinal qualities of wine, there was plenty of wine in medicine circles at two major tastings in Dublin recently. Febvre & Company, a leading distributor, held its tasting at the Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland, on St Stephen's Green, while the Wine Bunch opted for the Royal College of Physicians of Ireland, on Kildare Street.
Perhaps Febvre chose its venue in case the assembled throng suffered shock as this most private of wine companies stepped into the limelight. This was Febvre's first public outing - or rather its second, as it had dragged its substantial roadshow to Cork two nights previously.
The 150 or so bottles represented a good cross section of what this 40-year-old family-run company has to offer. It is strong in Bordeaux and, indeed, most of France, interesting in Italy, promising in Spain, reassuring in South Africa and Australia, and somewhat spotted elsewhere. This translated into a wide- ranging tasting laced with highlights.
Speaking of translation, it was indicative of wine's cultural sweep how often the cry was heard for a translator. I certainly could have done with one for my hilarious encounter with the cousins Pérez - Jose Manuel Pérez Ovejas and Adolfo Pérez Herrero - representatives of Bodegas Hermanos Pérez Pascuas, from Ribera del Duero.
What they lacked in English and I lacked in Spanish, they made up for with unbridled enthusiasm. And their wines were very good, too (see Cepa Gavilán,bottles of the week)."
At the Royal College of Physicians of Ireland, the four independent distributors that make up the Wine Bunch were showing their usual mix, from relatively small, high-standard producers. The companies - Wineknows, Inis Wines, Tyrrell & Co and Wicklow Wine Co - share an enthusiasm for the nooks and crannies of winemaking as well as the peaks.
The prices can seem pretty steep as well, although Felton Road Chardonnay 2004, from Central Otago, in New Zealand, (Wineknows) would compare very favourably with any top-notch Burgundy and so was quite reasonable at €28.99. Domaine Lucien Lardy's series of 2004 Beaujolais (Inis Wines) was also very impressive, and the dense, flavour-filled Moulin-à-Vent, at €15-€17, was great value, as was Domaine des Jougla's peachy Les Tuileries 2004, from Côteaux du Languedoc (€12-14).
The Rhône specialist Tyrrell and Company had its usual enticing selection on show, with the emphasis on Côte-Rôtie, that ludicrously expensive but always intriguing appellation. Pride of place went to 28-year-old Stephane Ogier, who made a wine for his mammy. But not any old wine. His La Cuvée Belle Hélène 2003, from the Côte Rozier parcel of the Côte Brune, is stunningly intense and costs €180. If any wine is worth that much, then this one is.
Wicklow Wine Co held its end up with an inviting selection, including brilliant German Rieslings (Georg Breuer) and wines and ports from Dirk Niepoort, who was there to guide us through his innovative approach to winemaking, a perfect example of which is his Redoma Branco 2002, €17.95.
• Febvre: 01-2161400, info@febvre.ie. Wineknows: 01-2849624, arabella@ wineknows.com. Inis Wines: 074-9542940, iniswines@eircom.net. Tyrrell and Company: 045-870882, simon@tyrrellandcompany.com. Wicklow Wine Co: 0404-66767, wicklowwineco@eircom.net