"Upon no other island on the Irish Coast have so many eyes rested or so few persons voluntarily set foot."
Thus wrote James Coleman in his book The Story of Spike Island, which was published in 1893. With such an intriguing statement, this is an island which begs to be explored.
Its history makes it unique among Irish islands in the variety of its uses over time. Starting as a monastic settlement in the seventh century, it has in turn been a smugglers' lair, a British army barracks, a depot for convicts awaiting deportation to Australia, an Irish Army barracks, a military detention centre, an Irish naval base, a prison for young offenders – mainly "joyriders" – and finally a tourist attraction under the care of Cork County Council.
At the core of the island is Fort Mitchel, formerly Fort Westmoreland; it is named after John Mitchel, who wrote the Jail Journal and who was incarcerated here prior to his deportation. The road to the entrance passes through part of a deserted village. There was a thriving community on the island for many years but they were resettled on the mainland after a riot by the "young offenders" in 1985. It is sobering to see the rapidity with which dereliction has set in; it looks like it could have been abandoned 100 years previously.
Parade ground
Unlike most forts, which stand proud of the landscape, Fort Mitchel lies concealed by a defensive embankment and when you enter its portal you are immediately struck by the size of the parade ground and of the buildings, some now in ruins, which surround it on all sides. In its time it was the largest prison in the then
United Kingdom
. At its peak it housed 2,000 convicts in the most miserable of conditions. Typical of its time, the fort is star-shaped with a bastion at each corner. Take time to wander around the area, visiting the cells, the military museum, the information panels in the cafe, and generally soak up the historic atmosphere. The most haunting moment for me was when I rounded a corner and came to a windowless building which was home to 200 child prisoners.
Highlight
The highlight of the trip is the circuit of the top of the embankment which circles the fort for nearly 2km. Cork
Harbour
was at its best with the sun’s rays splintering the wavelets stirred up by the westerly breeze which gave a clarity to the ever-changing vista: the elegant facade of
Cobh
, the Haulbowline naval base, the yachts sailing out of
Crosshaven
, the magnificent entrance to Cork Harbour guarded by the fortifications of Fort Meagher (formerly Camden) and Fort Davis (formerly Carlisle).
The walkway is liberally endowed with information panels and benches on which to sit and soak up the beauty of this large harbour. It was so enjoyable I completed two laps and diverted from a third to drop down and visit the convicts’ graveyard, and then I walked along the shoreline past more of the derelict houses until it was time to catch the ferry back to Cobh.
SPIKE ISLAND, CORK HARBOUR, CO CORK
Map: Ordnance Survey, Discovery Series, sheet 81 and 87, but they are not necessary.
Start and Finish: The Pier in Cobh. Grid Reference: 668 712
How to get there: Follow the N 25 east from Cork and take the exit for Cobh. Alternatively, you can take the train from Cork City. For times and dates check spikeislandcork.ie
Time: Three hours.
Distance: 2 to 4km. You can take the route in any order you wish.
Suitability: Easy.
Food and Accommodation: Cobh, Cork City.
