SUMMER STYLE:IT'S SPRING AND what are the trends that count? New florals anyone? Double denim? Or both together? And what about the Mad Men effect on fashion? No wonder there's noisy confusion. But when that urge to match a change in the air with a change in wear becomes overwhelming and you're racing out to buy something new, it's time to consider the options, nail the mood.
Sunny but cold May days may echo the economic chill around us, and tighter budgets mean more thoughtful and thrifty planning. But to paraphrase Dorothy Parker, what can ease the heart more than something new? Do we need an escape from black? Lord, we do. This special fashion issue suggests some fast-acting solutions to lighten the spring spirit.
Depending on what’s around, the season’s offerings are a mix of the enticing and the questionable (dungarees, harem pants?), of the candy floss and the practical. Shorts are everywhere, worn with opaques – a styling combination introduced in one of the late Alexander McQueen’s spring collections which moved straight from the runway to the street. Cut wide and loose on the thigh rather than tight-fitting, “cocktail” shorts are the new versions of mini skirts and, worn with a shapely jacket or blazer, more wearable and less revealing. Zara’s silky tone-on-tone versions show how slick and cool they can look.
Prints confront us and they’re everywhere. The bold visual effects of dizzying graphic patterns, abstracted and digitalised florals that follow the curve of the body and trompe l’oeil collages can be overpowering and quickly wear the wearer, tire the viewer. A light cardigan or a well-cut dark jacket, boyfriend or otherwise, lessens the exhibitionist charge of a zany dress. A good tip with separates is to vary the print in the same colour spectrum or mix familiar patterns such as stripes and polka dots with new motifs. Skin-toned tops in chiffon or silk with tiny pleats or embroideries are quieter, less dramatic but no less effective options. Animal prints are always spot on, particularly in accessories.
When times are tough, fashion often retreats into fantasy or the past. That may explain the continuing vogue for vintage, tough-looking leather jackets or gilets – and denim. This season blue jeans are reworked with classic American insouciance and style by Ralph Lauren, whose recessionary take on historic workaday overalls has divided opinion – unlike his versions of the denim shirtdress, a great summer staple.
We can blame Balmain for reigniting the trend for military flourishes with a hard, feminine edge. He embellished camouflage fatigues with green sequins, armed leather shorts with cartridge belts and copycats moved in fast.
Tamed down combat gear masquerading as urban utility wear has always had its appeal and nearly every department store has its own version. Marks Spencer’s military-style khaki jacket with fancy epaulettes, featured on these pages recently, has already sold out.
Leader in the field is the hardwearing trench, a summer essential, and there’s no end to choice this season – from Burberry to Penneys and beyond. Bear in mind, however, dry cleaning costs if opting for lighter shades. Elsewhere, the safe naval combination of red, white and blue is regularly vamped up by Tommy Hilfiger and others.
As for shoes, there’s high and there’s low and not much in between. Peekaboo boots, brogues and gladiator sandals put glide in the slide and even Chanel is offering camellia-decorated flip flops for high summer. Otherwise, blocky shapes with decorative heels and high platforms test the ground and one’s balance. Check out Louise Goldin’s “bad girl” court shoes at Topshop, for example. Cross-body bags called messenger bags are hip in every sense and even Louis Vuitton is doing rucksacks.
Meanwhile, Irish designers go their own way. Their approach is more romantic, less hamstrung by current trends and we love the freewheeling spirit of designers such as John Rocha, Eilis Boyle, Helen James, Joanne Hynes, Lucy Downes and others who fight to exist in an increasingly tough and competitive world. Rocha’s spring collection of puritan whites and fresh takes on Irish lace and crochet is inspirational and Eilis Boyle’s wispy dresses that transcend seasons are out on their own. Newcomers such as Mia O’Connell, Heidi Higgins and shoemaker Nina Divito are making their mark too, and this month will see the fledgling student designer graduation shows flush out new talent.
High street chains offer an enormity of looks, upmarket departments stores offer the international brands, while websites such as Net-a-Porter.com and Asos.com flourish. But we shouldn’t forget small independent Irish boutiques and shops such as Havana, Diffusion, Smock, Costume, 99b, Dolls, and others around the country that source forward-looking design with an individual eye and deserve support and recognition in testing times.
So it’s time to lighten up, because spring has sprung – and versatility in is vogue.
