Even in these straightened times, a euro or two more will make a huge difference when choosing a bottle of wine, writes JOHN WILSON.
CONTINUING WITH OUR frugal January theme, it’s well worth taking a look at the posher end of the market all the same. How often do you buy inexpensive wines from a wine merchant? I know a great many people buy the everyday wines in a supermarket, and venture into the specialist shops only when they require something more upmarket. This is not always the best buying strategy.
The specialist shops trade on the knowledge and service they offer. Their shelves may not all be piled up with half-price wines and knock-down offers, but most of them will have a selection at around €10, some of which can be very good. Remember that these guys have some very selective customers with finely-tuned palates, who are very choosy about what passes their lips. Not all of them can afford to spend a fortune on wine every day, so there will always be a range of inexpensive wines on offer.
You won’t find as many at €5.99 and €6.99, but there is a good reason for that – there are very few decent wines at this price. At €6.99, the Government takes €3.70 in taxes, over half of your money on each bottle. This, of course, includes the new increased duty on wine, which has added at least 50 cent to the price of a bottle. Take away the various retailer margins, shipping and warehousing, and the poor producer gets very little. So even in these straightened times, remember that a euro or two more will make a huge difference.
Once you reach the €10 mark and above, the picture changes entirely. Recently, I had a browse in Terroirs, the bespoke wine merchant located in the heart of D4. While there was no shortage of very tempting expensive bottles, there was a surprisingly big range of everyday wines. I have tasted my way through most, and few failed to impress.
I then repeated the exercise with Mitchell Son, and with 64 Wine in Glasthule. Once again, both had a great selection. 64 Wine recently added 30 new wines under €13, including a decent number under €11. I then asked a few more retailers to e-mail their range of inexpensive wines. My top 10 reds (nearly all under €11) are listed below; we will look at the whites next week.
I know many feel we are talking our way into a deeper recession than need be. Most of the specialist wine retailers reported a very reasonable Christmas; sales to restaurants were surprisingly buoyant, over-the-counter sales were similar to 2007, although customers were spending a little less; it was only corporate gifts that felt the full force of the economic downturn. However, I hope that this year will see the better independent retailers continue to thrive; they offer a service not available from the multiples, nor from supermarkets and off-licences around Newry either.
Le Secret de Frère Nonenque 2007, vdp des collines de la Moure, 12%, €10.95Made by one of the leading estates from a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Carignan, this is a lovely light easy wine with slightly peppery, but smooth liquorice and cherry fruits. A great sipping wine, that would do nicely on a wet Wednesday, but also double as a sophisticated party wine. Stockists:64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; Thomas's, Foxrock.
Simone Joseph 2005, Vin de pays des Coteaux du Pont du Gard, 12.5%, €8.99A blend of Syrah and Grenache that works very well; nice developing leather and liquorice touches add some interest to the easy summer fruits. A great mid-week wine to partner just about anything. Stockists:On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey; Cellars, the Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Road; Wicklow Wine Co; The Kitchen Project, Clonakilty, Co Cork.
Poggerissi Rosso di Toscana 2007, 13%, €10Lovely exuberant violets and cherries with some vanilla spice, too; dangerously easy to sip, this smooth but lively wine will cheer up all manner of pasta, pizza and lighter meat dishes. I can see this becoming a real favourite in the Wilson household. Stockists:On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey. Cabot Co, Westport; Mount Gable Gifts, Clonbur; The Wine Room, One Pery Square, Limerick.
Corinto Merlot 2007, Central Valley, Chile, 12.5%, €9At this price, you won't find any great complexity; but there are some lovely ripe, piquant damson fruits, no confected flavours, and a smooth finish. For €9, you cannot expect anything more. A great all-rounder with or without food. Stockists:Red Island, Skerries; On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey; Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Market 57, Westport; Macs, Limerick; Fahys, Ballina; Kellers, Roscrea; Cashel Wine Cellar, Cashel.
Pascual Toso Malbec 2007, Mendoza, Argentina, 14%, €10.50Need something big and bold to banish those winter blues? Look no further than this wine with its rich blackberry and loganberry fruits, overlaid with ample oaky vanilla spice. Best with beef or game. Stockists:Redmonds, Ranelagh; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Power Smullen, Lucan; Mill Cellar Maynooth; Red Island, Skerries; McCabes, Blackrock; Donnybrook Fair; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; O'Donovans, Cork; Vineyard Wine Co, Galway.
Donna Marzia Negramaro, Conti Zecca 2006, IGT Salento, Italy 13% ,€10.95Creamy dark cherries, with a distinctive, and pleasant, slightly bitter finish. Very moreish wine that calls out for food; grilled lamb or a pork chop would do very nicely. Stockists:Mad about Wine, Moycullen; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Parson's Wines, Cork and www.jnwine.com.
Blasón de Romero Cosecha, Ribera del Duero 2007, 13%, €11.50Over the €11 mark, but well worth the extra 50 cent. I featured the 2006 vintage some months ago, and the 2007 is a worthy successor. Lovely, quite full ripe damsons, with a nice kick on the finish. Lovely purity of fruits. Great with any red or white meats, or richer pasta dishes, too. Stockists:Listons, Camden Street; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilliput Stores, Arbor Hill; Ennis Butchers, South Circular Road; Wicklow Wine Company.
Madiran, Domaine Mouréou, 13%, €11.95Not quite as suave as the Château d'Aydie mentioned a few weeks ago, but not nearly as expensive either. However, the Mouréou does have some very attractive firm cool dark fruits, cloaked in a solid tannic structure. The most expensive wine today, but it is a delicious, gently seductive wine. Try it with grilled duck breast or belly of pork. Stockists:64 Wine, Glasthule.
Gran Sasso Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006, Italy, 13.5%, €10.95Smooth, juicy dark cherries with a lip-smacking finish. This would go very nicely with herby or lightly spicy chicken dishes. Stockists:www.wineshop.ie ; Jus De Vin, Portmarnock; Red Island, Skerries; Bin No 9, Goatstown; Cornerhouse, Cork; 64 Wine, Glasthule; The Bottle Shop, Meath St; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; Red Nose Wines, Clonmel; Eno Wines, Monkstown IFSC; The Drink Store, Navan; On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey.
Château Etang des Colombes Carignan 2005, Vin de Table, 13%, €10.95From an estate in Corbières, a light but tasty wine, now fully mature, but with a classic peppery Carignan nose, easy fruit and no real tannins. It was swamped a bit by a steak, but very good both before and after the meal. Stockist:Terroirs, Donnybrook.