It's not a slip, it's a chemise, according to some. Whatever you call them, these flimsy pieces of silk are going to be big next season. Glynis and Elva Robins have created some of the prettiest examples, writes Deirdre McQuillan
The slip, a relic of silver-screen glamour, is making a comeback. In the US, reports indicate it is a major trend for spring and autumn, in keeping with the current romantic, ultra-feminine trend in fashion. The worst crime for ladies of a certain vintage was to let it show, but now a new generation has discovered the allure and sensuality of lace-trimmed silk worn, not as underwear, but as a more sophisticated alternative to a blouse or T-shirt, particularly when worn over jeans.
"We never use the word slip, particularly to a male customer," says Susan Hunter, owner of the lingerie shop in Dublin's Westbury Mall, who confirms the trend in Ireland. "It is a chemise. A slip is Liz Taylor in Cat in a Hot Tin Roof, it's what you've seen your granny wear in the nursing home. A black silk chemise by La Perla is something glamorous, and particularly gorgeous worn in layers with little cardigans."
Designer Glynis Robins has been reviving vintage silk slips for the past two years, transforming them with subtle dyes and lavish beaded embroidery into glamorous dresses and separates, some even used as wedding dresses. "They look amazing over jeans, too," she says. "You can dress up jeans with them and they are so beautifully made." She and her daughter Elva, a jewellery designer, have combined forces to produce a new collection called Gossamer, which takes lingerie-inspired lightness and femininity to a new level for daywear, or dramatic eveningwear.
The collection in silk, tulle and chiffon consists of items such as jackets, skirts, scarves and sleeves, all decorated with Swarovski crystal. The skirts, better described as tutus, can be worn under or over skirts or with footless tights. "The sleeves dress things up," says Glynis. "Elva wears tutus under a denim dress, and it doesn't have to be a summer look, particularly."
This collaboration began a year ago, and the collection was launched at Dublin Fashion Week in October. "We wanted to do something together. She's a jewellery designer and I am a fabric designer and it worked out well. The idea is to create an effect of a shimming and glittering layer, next to the skin or to coloured fabric underneath."
The collection, in neutral shades, also includes trousers, aprons, basques and wraps, but in the most delicate forms imaginable. "With very simple understated pieces underneath, it will add a new dimension," says Nikki Creedon of Havana boutique in Donnybrook, Dublin, where selected pieces from Gossamer can be found from the end of this month, along with Kalu boutique in Naas, Co Kildare. The full, handmade collection is available at Glynis Robins, Railway Road, Dalkey.