FOOD:Raw figs look tantalising, but often tastle bland. Try baking them to improve their flavour.
FIGS ARE ONE of those things I love ordering when I see them on a menu, often paired with something fancy such as foie gras, or served simply with fantastic cured ham and hard Italian cheese.
But more often than not, what you end up with is a soggy, tasteless, mushy blob. They are so picturesque, dusty and shady, ambling from leafy green to soft, then deep purple, luring you into thinking they’re going to taste like manna – and then poof! You bite into that pink flesh, waiting for nectar, and what hits your tastebuds is often so disappointingly bland.
Cookbooks and magazines are always filled with pretty fig pictures, for the simple reason that they are the supermodel of fruits. They are so much more photogenic than poor old oranges or kiwis, for example – but all that beauty comes at a price. More often than not, their beauty is only skin-deep. Inside they are total and utter bimbos. I reckon this is partly because they suffer from travel sickness, get jet lag and probably hate slumming it in the back of white vans. They are supermodels, after all.
Full of potassium, manganese and fibre, figs are bursting with goodness. Fig trees can actually grow here, despite our inconsistent climate. But they do best in places such as north Africa and California – Ireland is at the limits of their growing range. But, seemingly, if you plant it near a sunny, south-facing wall, you too can have a luscious fig tree in your garden. In that way, you can also have fig leaves, which I think are great wrapped around fish that you have drizzled with oil, seasoned well and baked in the oven. A fig papillote, if you will. Maybe home-grown ones taste better, but, for my money, they are too much of a lottery to eat raw. Yes, they look good, but I prefer cooking them in such a way as to guarantee flavour. I’ve messed around with two recipes: one starter and one dessert, both of which got the thumbs up. Even if the figs you have aren’t great, you can still make two dishes that work well, in spite of any fig indifference.
Figs with goats’ cheese and Parma ham (serves four as a very big starter, or a lunch dish)
8 figs
160g semi-hard, strong goats’ cheese
12-16 slices of Parma ham
Olive oil
Black pepper
Thyme leaves
Pre-heat an oven to 190 degrees/gas mark five. Cut the figs almost in half – don’t chop all the way through, though, so they remain attached at the base. Cut the goats’ cheese into eight slices, and slip one slice into each fig. Wrap with the Parma ham and place on a baking tray. Drizzle with some olive oil and season with black pepper and some thyme, if you like. Bake for about 15 minutes until the Parma ham is crisp and has good colour. Serve with a simple salad, with a strong and punchy dressing.
Fig tart
Make this in a tart tin that measures 29 centimetres or in a baking tray – whatever suits.
200g plain flour
100g butter
175g caster sugar
Pinch of salt
1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla extract
10 figs
2 tbs granulated sugar
150g apricot jam
Make the pastry in a food processor, by pulsing the flour and butter until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and salt, then pulse again. Add the yolk and the vanilla, and keep processing until the pastry comes together and forms a ball. If it is a bit dry and won’t form a ball, add a tiny splash of cream or another egg yolk. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minutes or overnight. Pre-heat the oven to 180 degrees/gas mark four.
Cut the figs in half, then in quarters. Roll out the pastry, and line the bottom of the tin – but leave the pastry quite thick. Don’t bother trying to line the sides, just the base. Arrange the fig slices on top, sprinkle with sugar, and bake for about 45 minutes, until the pastry is puffed up slightly and golden brown. Melt the jam with a few teaspoons of water over a gentle heat, and when the tart is cool, glaze and leave to cool fully before serving.
Honey and mascarpone cream
150ml cream
3 tbs mascarpone
1 tbs honey
Whisk the cream until it is frothy, add mascarpone and honey, and then whisk until thick and creamy. Chill and serve with the tart.
dkemp@irishtimes.com
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