WINE: AROUND THIS TIME of year, the airwaves and papers are full of people with alternative Christmas suggestions. It sometimes seems that we are determined to jettison whatever few culinary traditions we do have in this country,. writes John Wilson
I am certainly in the traditionalist camp on this one; I love both turkey and goose, served with piles of crusty roast potatoes, plenty of gravy, bread sauce, and several stuffings.
I also like that most disparaged vegetable of them all, Brussels sprouts. Further still, I have no problem eating the leftovers in the days after the event. With this in mind, I will cover the classic Christmas dinner today, and then offer a few wines for the alternative camp next week.
This is the third week running that I have recommended starting off with a glass of fizz, but Christmas morning for me would not be the same without one. Prosecco is fine, as is New World fizz, although in recent months I have been leaning towards some of the very good French sparklers from Burgundy, the Loire and Alsace. I have featured some of these over the past few weeks, but this is Christmas, so if you can afford it, why not splash out on Champagne?
In recent years, we have eaten smoked salmon from a variety of sources, including Sally Barnes and Frank Hederman. Both were excellent, but last year, as there were hordes to feed, we opted for Lidl, which I find very good. If you are serving fish, most white wines will do, but Chardonnay, and white Burgundy in particular, is best for me.
Yesterday evening, I drank a sublime bottle of 2004 Pouilly-Fuissé that I had aged for a year or two. Sadly it was the last bottle, otherwise I would have served it on Christmas day.
Turkey is fairly flexible when it comes to wine, but it is best with something fairly soft and full of fruit. Try to avoid wines with too much tannin; they can seem very dry when served with turkey; all of those sweet stuffings and sauces don't help either.
For me, Christmas Day is more about relaxing with family; I do not crack open my finest wines. I prefer to indulge myself the following day, or later in January when I need a little treat.
If you prefer to drink white wine, choose something with a bit of body; a lightly-oaked Chardonnay would do nicely. Otherwise, serve a soft, easy wine from the southern Rhône, the Languedoc or Australia. You could also go for a Pinot Noir, from Chile if you are on a budget, or New Zealand or Burgundy if you want to splash out. With goose, you could try out a rich Riesling Spätlese, or as with turkey, a really good Pinot Noir.
To finish off, Port is traditional, and I will take a look at the options next week. Certainly a good Tawny with its plum and raisin fruits makes a great match for plum pudding. However, I am not a big fan of desserts, particularly at the end of a very heavy meal.
This year I will avoid the plum pudding, and slowly sip a glass of sweet wine, such as the exquisite example below. Later, in the evening, I may pour a small glass of whiskey or cognac. But more of that next week, too!
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er cru, 12%, €49.50 (half bottle €29.50)This is one of the best Champagnes I have tasted in recent months. Made from 80 per cent Chardonnay, it has superb full rich flavours of brioche and toast that really fill the mouth. Guaranteed to wow anyone you invite to Christmas dinner, this will provide the perfect start to your celebrations. I would also buy in a bottle or two for New Year festivities. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook
Berry Brothers White Burgundy 2006, Jean-Luc Terrier and Christian Collovray, 13%, €13.95 (case price €11.15)A lovely forward fruit-filled nose, leading on to a very nicely balanced wine with rounded apple fruits and a refreshing streak of acidity. Great with any fishy starters or turkey. Stockist: Ardkeen Stores, Waterford; Swans on the Green, Naas; Berry Brothers Rudd, Harry Street, D2.
Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé les Brules 2006, 13.5%, €30.45 Verging on the hedonistic, a lovely rich, ripe style of Burgundy, with intense peach fruits, overlaid with well-judged spicy oak, and a tangy citrus finish. Great with any seafood or the turkey. Stockist: O'Briens Wine Off-licences
Domaine Alary Cairanne 2006, 14.5%, €17.50I love the wines of Cairanne in the southern Rhône, and believe Alary to be the very best producer. The wines are distinctively flavoured and delicious, always a seductive combination of power and elegance. Full and rounded with intense cherry fruits, a touch of liquorice and a smooth finish. Big enough to take on the turkey and all of the side dishes, too. Stockists: The Wine Room at One Pery Square, Limerick; Bin No. 9, Goatstown; Listons, Camden Street; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; McHugh's, Kilbarrack Road; On the Grapevine, Booterstown; www.thestoreroom.ie.
Tussock Hill Pinot Noir, Nelson, New Zealand 2006, 13.5%, €17.99From one of the leading producers in Nelson, this is a medium-bodied, supple red with wonderful ripe, dark cherry fruits, and lovely centre-palate concentration. Try it with either turkey or goose. I spied it on offer at Donnybrook Fair for €15.99 while stocks last. Stockists: Thomas's, Foxrock; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Donnybrook Fair; On The Grapevine (Dalkey and Booterstown); The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Gibney's, Malahide, D-Six, Harolds Cross; Holland's, Bray; Power Smullen, Lucan; Country Choice, Nenagh; Masters' Wine Warehouse, Waterford; Curious Wines, Bandon; Cabot Co, Westport.
Thomas Barton Médoc Réserve Priveé 2005, 13.5%, €30True traditionalists will probably insist on drinking Bordeaux with their turkey. If so, they could do worse than trying the latest offering in the Thomas Barton range. Decant an hour or so beforehand to smooth out the tannins, allowing the flavours of blackcurrant, mint and tobacco to develop further. Impressive wine from one of the great vintages in Bordeaux. Stockist: Donnybrook Fair.
Château Laffitte-Teston, Rêve d'Automne Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh 2006, 13%, €20.50-€22 per 50cl bottleThe south-west of France makes some thrilling sweet wines, usually a superb balance of sweetness and acidity. I prefer them to the richer and sweeter wines made elsewhere. Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh is not easy to pronounce, and certainly falls into the unfamiliar category, but please do not let that deter you. This has stunning flavours of orange peel, apricot and subtle butterscotch, all kept perfectly in check by the citrus.
Sweet wines like this will keep for a week or more in the fridge, perfect for dipping into when you need a treat over the Christmas break. It will also go very nicely with blue cheese - Roquefort in particular. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Lilac Wines, Philipsburg Ave; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; The Vineyard, Galway; Thomas's, Foxrock.
jwilson@irishtimes.com