Marinating comes into its own in barbecue season, writes Hugo Arnold
The marinated shoulder of pork was hardly an elegant sight. The slick of olive oil formed droplets as soon as it hit the wine, and the fennel and herbs added colour and aroma. I had lightly toasted the fennel seeds in a dry pan and the rosemary and sage were still smarting from their rough treatment on the chopping board. A generous helping of garlic was making its presence felt too. Some 24 hours later I tied the pork into a neat log with string, with some of the marinade ingredients trapped inside the parcel. We sat down to succulent and full-flavoured meat, infused with herbs and garlic.
Much is made of a marinade's role in tenderising, but I'm not so sure I follow this logic. A marinade may make some meat more tender, but I have my doubts about its ability to magically transform tough meat.
As we move into the barbecue season, marinating comes into its own. Steaks can be bathed in anything from soy and ginger to white wine and garlic; lamb spiked with coriander and yoghurt - the acidity in the latter works well in cutting through the richness; chicken made heady with thyme, and given acidity with lemons and limes.
Dry marinades have their place, too. Use either oily herbs such as rosemary and sage, or spices - maybe cumin, ginger or coriander. Often, this dusting will cook to a crusty finish, providing textural contrast as well as depth of flavour. These blends work well on fish too, particularly the oily ones like salmon. Served with a creamy pile of lentils and a splodge of yoghurt, it is the kind of deconstructed spicy food I adore.
There is no doubt that the longer you marinate, the better. Overnight is good, but even a few hours will provide more of a mingling of tastes than something done moments beforehand.