Classic Christmas first courses from Hugo Arnold
Tradition in this country may dictate that Christmas lunch or dinner begins with smoked salmon, but I endlessly scratch my head in search of some new way to present it. I like it with a squeeze of lemon juice, but more is expected. Some years I have shunned smoked salmon in favour of something that is easy, makes an impression, but is not too rich, given all that is to follow. A Caesar salad, for example, is welcomingly light and refreshing, as well as being easy to construct and serve. A salad of watercress, beetroot, bacon and horseradish is another favourite, partly for the flavours, but also for the festive colours.
A terrine, perhaps with foie gras, is a breeze to serve, spread at the last minute on to croutons and served on a colourful salad. I suggest radicchio and oven-dried tomatoes for colour, toasted pine nuts for crunch. And if making your own terrine is too much work, Terroirs in Donnybrook has a good selection and will post them (01-6671311).
I love Italian salamis and hams, especially when eaten with grilled artichokes, aubergines and red peppers, all residing prettily in olive oil-filled jars. This is best served on large plates in the middle of the table, allowing your guests to pick at will. For some, the idea of having cheese after turkey is a step too far, so you could opt to start with something simple such as blue cheese and endives dressed with a mustardy vinaigrette.
Twice-cooked souffles were all the rage some years ago in restaurants. They still have their merits for the stressed home cook who wants to prepare things in advance.
Seafood - langoutines, crabs, oysters and winkles - is one of the grandest starters, although sourcing a selection coming up to the big day can be tricky. A freezer comes into its own here. Last year I had frozen Dublin Bay prawns carefully in trays, but I was lucky enough to be in the fishmongers when a box of fresh ones arrived. I couldn't resist, so we had a second helping on New Year's Eve. Scallops, too, can be frozen, preferably for only a few days.
PRAWN COCKTAIL
16 large Dublin Bay or tiger prawns
2 lemons
1 head Little Gem lettuce, trimmed and shredded
2 handfuls watercress
1 tbsp good-quality mayonnaise
1 tbsp full-fat yoghurt
1 tsp tomato ketchup
Tabasco
Place the prawns in well-salted cold water. Bring to the boil, simmer for one minute and then drain, allowing the prawns to cool.
Peel the prawns and gently toss with the juice of one lemon and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Combine the mayonnaise, yoghurt, ketchup and a dash of Tabasco. Divide the lettuce and watercress among four suitable glasses. Distribute the langoustine and gently spoon over the sauce. Serve with a wedge of lemon. Feel free to add (or subtract) other ingredients, such as the tomato and avocado in the photo below.
FOIE GRAS SALAD
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
olive oil
balsamic vinegar
half a baguette
1 small tin foie gras (pâté is fine provided the producer is a good one)
4 handfuls salad leaves
1 head chicory, trimmed and cut into shards
4 small cooked (not pickled) beetroot, quartered
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees/gas six. Place the cherry tomatoes in a roasting tin, sprinkle three tablespoons of olive oil and one of balsamic vinegar over them. Toss so the tomatoes are well coated. Season generously with salt and pepper and roast for 20-30 minutes, or until they start to burst and lose their shape.
Slice up the baguette, lightly brush the slices with olive oil and place them on a wire rack on top of the tomatoes. Bake for eight to 10 minutes, or until golden: watch them toward the end, they are easy to burn. Provide you don't let them steam, they will stay crisp for a few hours.
Toss the chicory with the leaves and place on four plates. Spoon the tomatoes over the top and scatter the beetroot on the plates. Slice the foie gras and place on top of the prepared crostini. Add these to the salad leaves. Add more olive oil to the cherry tomato juices, then stir and add balsamic vinegar and salt and pepper to taste and pour over the assemblies.
COQUILLE SAINT-JACQUES
8 scallops
75ml white wine
1 dessertspoon finely chopped parsley
1 dessertspoon butter
1 tbsp finely chopped shallot
1 tsp flour
75ml milk
2 tbsp fine bread crumbs
extra butter for the topping
Season the scallops and gently poach them in the white wine, along with 150ml water, for four minutes. Remove and when cool cut into quarters. Place in the shells, or shallow dishes, and scatter the parsley over the top with a seasoning of salt and pepper. Combine the butter and shallot in a small saucepan and saute gently for five minutes. Remove from the heat and add the flour, the cooking liquor from the scallops and the milk. Simmer gently over a medium heat for five minutes, or until creamy and smooth. Pour this over the scallops, scatter the bread crumbs on top and dot with a little extra butter. Place under a preheated grill until brown and bubbling.
CAVIAR WITH POTATO PANCAKES
As much caviar, lumpfish roe or salmon keta as you wish
225g floury potatoes
75g full-cream milk
75g whipping cream
2 eggs, plus the white of another
1½ heaped tsp self-raising flour
4 dessertspoons creme fraiche
Peel, quarter and boil the potatoes in salted water until cooked, then mash finely. Combine the milk and cream in a saucepan and bring it to the boil then remove from the heat. Whisk one whole egg and the yolk, but not the white of the other, along with the flour, into the potato mixture and then whisk in the hot cream and milk. Season with salt and pepper. This should resemble thick batter.
You can do all of this in advance. Then whisk the remaining egg whites until stiff and gently fold into the batter. Heat small blini pans, or a small frying pan and when they are hot, lightly oil them. Ladle in the pancake mixture and cook the pancakes until lightly coloured. Turn them over and repeat on the other side. If you are using a larger frying pan, you will then need to cut the pancake into wedges. Arrange in the middle of the plate, gently spread with creme fraiche and top with the caviar.