Mary Dowey suggests some well-matched companions for your favourite takeaways
For the flat-out exhaustion that always seems to follow the back-to-work, back-to-school routine, there is one known cure. A good takeaway. Especially if you consume it in the company of a decent bottle of wine. What's decent? Something of reasonable quality, for a start. There's no point ruining a tasty instant dinner with some nasty old plonk that would strip the lining from a stewpot. And make sure it's a wine whose flavours suit the food - a point that is frequently overlooked.
The minute you have chosen your meal's nationality, spare a few minutes to rummage through your stash of bottles or drop into the off-licence and pick out a safe bet. It will be worth the effort, making even the most basic takeaway taste miles better than it might with any randomly selected bottle, while elevating a good one to the rank of gourmet treat.
CHINESE
There’s a touch of sweetness about Chinese food, which tends to make dry wines taste bitter, so beware. Choose something fruity – remembering that sparkling wine is a clever solution because it cuts through those tongue-coating sauces. If several of you are sharing a Chinese meal, you’ll probably want a white wine for the lighter dishes and a red for meaty food and stronger spices. Best bets: New World sparkling wine, Riesling, Viognier, Rosé, Côtes du Rhône.
Star choices: Jacob's Creek Chardonnay-Pinot Noir, South Australia NV. Affordable, likeable Aussie sparkler with plenty of fruit. A great start to any Chinese meal and with fish, pork and chicken dishes you can keep on drinking it all the way through. Widely available, 112.95. Peter Lehmann The Barossa Riesling, Barossa Valley 2003. This is a smashing choice for Chinese, Thai, even Indian, still at an unbelievable price. Heaps of ripe fruit with a refreshing cut of lime. From Superquinn; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Pettitts in south-east; O'Donovans, Cork; Vineyard, Galway; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar and others, on sale at 17.99 (but not for much longer).
THAI
Whites are definitely more successful than reds. You'll probably enjoy wines with a tad less sweetness and a little more acidity than those that work best for Chinese food, although New World Rieslings and middle-of-the-road rosés cope with both. The lime and lemongrass flavours in Thai food make New World Sauvignon Blanc a special hit.
Best bets: New World Sauvignon Blanc, New World Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Semillon-Chardonnay, Rosé.
Star choices: Saint Clair Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2003. Classic New Zealand Sauvignon at a digestible price. Passionfruit and gooseberry flavours with a palate-cleansing bite of lime. From many Next Door outlets countrywide; Kellys, Clontarf; Bourkes, Cabinteely; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Mill, Maynooth;
Harvest, Galway; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Bradleys, Cork and others, usually 111.95. Vigna Corvina Cerasuolo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2003. Strange, perhaps, to see an Italian rosé straying into the Thai section, but this punchy full-on pink at a knockdown price works amazingly well with Thai flavours. From O'Briens, still on special offer, 17.99.
INDIAN
Again, beware of anything too dry. Round, smooth-textured wines with plenty of ripe fruit act as a buffer, cushioning the impact of spice. Whites and rosés work well with a wide array of dishes, but if you're into red-hot curries, you may be happier with a plump red – provided it's not tannic. New World Pinot Noir and Zinfandel are red options.
Best bets:
Marsanne, Viognier, Semillon-Chardonnay, Rosé, Côtes du Rhône.
Star choices: Virginie Marsanne Vin de Pays d'Oc 2002. Marsanne and Indian food can be sensational together. This one is terrific at the price. From Oddbins, 18.69. Les Genets Chusclan, Esprit de Terroir 2002. Moreish Côtes du Rhône with ripe damson and blackberry flavours and warm spice. Suits many Chinese, Indian and Mexican dishes. Very well made, very well priced. From Dunnes Stores, 110.99.
MEXICAN
With light starters such as guacamole, try a straightforward Sauvignon Blanc – maybe from Chile or South Africa. Meatier, spicier dishes such as chilli con carne or beef burritos are best with jammy, not-too-oaky reds. For authenticity, consider the Mexican red, Petite Sirah (if you can find it). Another slightly offbeat choice is Chilean Carmenère – a wine that often seems too luscious with European food.
Best bets: New World Sauvignon Blanc, Petite Sirah, Syrah/Shiraz (not too oaky), Zinfandel, Carmenère.
Star choices: Escobera Monastrell-Syrah, Jumilla 2002. Inland from Alicante, the warm Jumilla region produces lush, caramel-tinged reds with very gentle tannins. Like this blend spicy Monastrell (Spain's equivalent of Mourvèdre) and Syrah. A natural with hot food. From Pettitts in south-east, 18.99. Stone Cellars by Beringer Zinfandel, California 2000. Like Carmenère, voluptuous Zinfandel can sometime seem totally OTT ... until you try it with chilli-laden Mexican food. This is a super example – perfumed and round, with ripe berry, pepper and mocha flavours. From Oddbins, 19.99.
ITALIAN
You could drink Chardonnay or Merlot with your takeaway pizza. But why not choose a typically Italian wine? You'll benefit from the natural synergy. Tangy acidity is the hallmark of many Italian wines, both white and red.
Best bets: Pinot Grigio, Soave, Lugana, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Chianti Classico.
Star choices: Montresor Soave Classico 2003. Pepperoni cries out for red wine, but many other pizzas taste their best with a crisp, appetising white. This lovely, lemony number proves it's high time that Soave lost its bargain basement image – but let's keep the cheering price. From O'Briens, 18.99. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Terre di Epicuro 2003. If you haven't yet caught up with this recent Bottle of the Week, chase it now. Juicy, gutsy and incredibly good value – besides being brilliant with pizza. From Listons, Camden St; Octavius, Sligo; Barley & Grape, Stranorlar; Blessings, Cavan; Vintage Store, Tullamore; Mortons, Galway; Macs, Limerick; Shannon Knights, Shannon; Jaynes, Ennis and others, usually 18.99.