Joël Robuchon's approach to casual dining is taking Paris by storm, writes Elizabeth Field.
I have seen paradise on earth and it is called l'Atélier de Joël Robuchon in Paris. I may also have seen the future of haute cuisine. As food lovers know, Joël Robuchon is one of the world's great chefs, whose elegant, expensive Michelin three-starred restaurant Jamin in Paris was the culinary destination in the 1980s. When Robuchon "retired" in 1996 at the age of 51, he broke many gourmets' hearts. Now he's back with something entirely different, and it has proved such a success that L'Atélier was joined in May by La Table de Joël Robuchon.
L'Atélier is a sleek, contemporary space, done in red, black and stainless steel, with two black U-shaped sushi bar-type counters, tall, red leather barstools, and an attractive young waitstaff dressed in red and black. The chefs wear black, too - and you see three of Robuchon's acolytes (and sometimes Robuchon himself) putting the final touches on their dishes behind the bar.
The idea is "conviviality, a place where people can feel relaxed and talk to each other, or come in alone and feel welcome," says manager Antoine Hernandez. Indeed, you feel perfectly comfortable in a T-shirt and jeans, and unapologetic about gaping at your neighbour's meal. L'Atélier accepts no bookings - the wait for a seat is usually no longer than 10 minutes - and the atmosphere is as lively as a bistro.
The menu is fun. Dishes are French, Spanish and Asian-influenced, but the over-riding aim is "to use the best ingredients available, prepared very simply," says Hernandez. The left side of the menu features 20 "petites assiettes", or tapas-sized portions of dishes such as roast pigeon with foie gras; gazpacho; grilled giant prawns with vermicelli; baby octopus salad; poached egg in wild mushroom cream. You could order a couple of these dishes with a Chartreuse soufflé for dessert and be very happy.
The right side features more substantial fare: man-sized portions of steak tartare with pommes frites; deep-fried whiting with herb butter and velvety puréed potatoes; spaghetti carbonara; "blue" lobster salad. If you avoid the two or three dishes containing caviar and lobster, the average price of entrées is about €25.
La Table de Joël Robuchon operates by the same tapas-style concept, but diners sit at a table, rather than a counter, and unlike L'Atélier, reservations are taken.
On three occasions, I have spent less than €50 on a meal, including a glass or two of wine and coffee. And I have tasted some mind-blowing food: a pearly, translucent carpaccio of ultra-fresh raw langoustine, pounded into flat discs and showered with red peppercorns, poppy seeds and light olive oil. A dessert of hauntingly delicate poached peaches and raspberries punctuated with a penetratingly herbal, basil sorbet.
For an experiment, I flew to Paris for €6 on Ryanair one day, ate at L'Atélier and bought some wine at Bon Marche's food halls, all for under €100.
L'Atélier's economic principle is based on quick turnover and long hours; lunch is served until 3.30 p.m., and dinner runs until 12.30 a.m. So far, the customer response has been enthusiastic, says Hernandez.
So is haute cuisine over? I don't think so. But Atélier proves there is a market for top-quality, low-cost dining in a buzzy atmosphere. What about an all-night diner for Dublin that's cheap, cheerful, funky and delicious? It could be a revolution.
L'Atélier Joël Robuchon, Hôtel Pont Royal, 7, rue de Montalembert, Paris, 0033-1-42225656; La Table de Joël Robuchon, 16 Avenue Bugeaud, Paris, 0033-1-56281616