Budget, flush and loaded.
Budget
FIZZKick off with Bisol Desiderio Jeio Prosecco(€17.99, Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin), a clean, crisp Italian sparkler. Or, for a few euro more, try a very good Champagne in H Blin & Co NV (€19.99, Superquinn).
STARTEREverybody thinks of Chablis for the smoked salmon, so step forward Tesco's Finest Chablis 2004(€12.60). I prefer Berry Brothers & Rudd's refreshing, clean Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc(€9.95), Marks & Spencer's attractive Mineralstein Riesling(€9.99) or the steely fruit of Dona Rosa Rías Baixas 2005(€13.99, Donnybrook Fair).
MAIN COURSEIt is difficult to see beyond Palo Alto Reserva 2005(€7.95 during December, Dunnes Stores), a smooth and classy Chilean with dark fruit and vanilla notes. However, Quara Malbec(About €8.50, Molloy's Liquor Stores) is a good choice, as is Golden Kaan Shiraz 2003(€8.99, Eurospar, Spar, Mace).
DESSERT Mitchell's Gold Graves Supérieur 2004(€12.50, Mitchell & Son, Dublin 2 and Glasthule, Co Dublin; Andersons, Dublin 9) has orange-peel flavours and rich honey streaks.
PORTThere are many cheap ports about, but they are usually a recipe for sore heads.We recommend splashing out a little. Try Churchill's Reserve Vintage Character Port(€13.99) from McHughs, Kilbarrack and Malahide Rd; Bennetts, Howth.
Flush
FIZZTwo good-value buys get you off to a solid start: Charles Orban Blanc de Noirs(€23.99, O'Briens) and Bisinger & Co Premium Cuvée(€24.99, Lidl). I'm also fond of Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV(€45.99, widely available, including Celtic Whisky Shop, Dublin 2).
STARTERThe New Zealand Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2005(O'Briens, €13.99) is a model of restraint. Catena Chardonnay from Argentina(Cheers, Delgany, €18.95) is wonderfully rich, as is Niepoort Redoma Branco 2005from Portugal (Wicklow Wine Co, €17.95).
MAIN COURSEIf it has to be Pinot, try the Kiwi Felton Road(€38, Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2; and Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; On the Grapevine, Dalkey and Booterstown, Co Dublin). If not, San Felice Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino 2001(€24.95, from €35, O'Briens) is a bargain thoroughbred - as is Pezat 2005(€15, Cellars Wine Warehouse, Dublin 12; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock and Vintry, Rathgar).
DESSERT Domaine des BaumardCoteaux du Layon, Carte d'Or 2001 (€12, half-bottle, widely available, including Vanilla Grape, Kenmare; The Vineyard, Galway). This is not overly sweet; the fresh acidity and fruit will help revive the palate.
PORT Niepoort 10-year-old Tawny(€29.95, Wicklow Wine Co) is rich and raisiny.
Loaded
FIZZ Louis Roederer Cristal 1999(€185, Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin) was drunk by rap stars until its maker frowned on their custom. We'll fill in anytime.
STARTER Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2005(Le Caveau, Kilkenny, €23.95), is sublime, as is Jean-Louis Chavy's sensuous Puligny-Montrachet 2004,Premier Cru Les Folatières (about €55, Donnybrook Fair, D4; McCabes, Foxrock and Blackrock, Co Dublin; Mitchell & Son, D2 and Glasthule, Co Dublin).
MAIN COURSEHow about Domaine Thierry Mortet's wonderfully rich and complex Gevrey-Chambertin 2003 (about €45, for stockists see Les Folatières, above) or the supremely elegant Domaine de Courcel Pommard Premier Cru 1999(€69, O'Briens). Cakebread 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon(€78.99, 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; Mitchell & Son, D2 and Glasthule, Co Dublin; Eugene's, Kenmare, Co Kerry; and Bradley's, North Main Street, Cork) should knock your socks off.
DESSERT Château Court-les- Mûts Saussignac 2001(€16.96 half-bottle, widely available, including Wicklow Wine Co) is The Best of Wine in Ireland 2007's top dessert wine.
PORTFinish on a high with Warres Vintage Port 1985(€83.49, Thomas' Deli, Foxrock, Co Dublin; Redmond's, D6; Claudio's, D2; SuperValu, Tralee, Co Kerry).