Amid oceans of very ordinary wines, there are some extraordinary ones worth seeking out, writes John Wilson
IT SHOULD NOT be too difficult for any winemaker to make something drinkable. I reckon about 80 per cent of the wines that I taste fall into this category; pleasant easy drinking that won't offend, but don't provide fireworks either. Probably another 10 per cent fall short of what you would expect, or are truly awful. And then there is the top 10 per cent, wines that leave you searching for adjectives and superlatives.
As a wine journalist, I am lucky enough to be invited to a great number of trade and press tastings. I have been fortunate to taste some superb wines during 2008, some while on trips to various wine regions, but mostly at tastings, or over dinner at home.
This week I list the very best wines I have tasted over the past 12 months. With two exceptions, I have excluded wines that are not available in Ireland. Not all are expensive, but sadly most of come in at more than €20. For those suffering in the current downturn, I promise to spend the next few weeks featuring wines at far more accessible prices.
Over the course of last year, I came to realise that most of my favourite wines come from a very small, narrow strip of land that cuts through Europe, and this is reflected in my choice below. I would start in Germany, with its wonderful dry, medium and sweet Rieslings, and continue over the border into Alsace where I will find more brilliant dry Riesling. Then a quick detour up to Champagne, on south to Burgundy (also taking in Beaujolais), and down along the northern and southern Rhône. From there it is a short trip over to Piedmont with its amazing Nebbiolo-based reds. I could also include Austria, home once again of some supreme Riesling, as well as some great dessert wines.
I would miss Bordeaux, south-west France and Spain, and the odd bottle of new world wine, but I reckon I could happily drink just these wines for a year or more. If you do want to explore these areas a little, then you are in luck. 2007 was a near-perfect vintage in Germany for Riesling and, despite reports, pretty good in Austria too; I was lucky enough to taste scores of brilliant wines from both countries. The years 2005 and 2006 were excellent in the northern Rhône, but both look like being surpassed by 2007, which looks superb both north and south. As mentioned earlier this year, 2005 will be one of the great vintages for Burgundy; snap up any that you can afford.
HOUSE WINES OF THE YEAR
These are my pick of everyday wines that can be popped open on any occasion. There were plenty of options, but four wines really stood out.
White
A strong contender for best inexpensive white wine of the year, Domaine de Pellehaut featured a few weeks ago. It is one of the all-time great value wines, full of delicious green fruits and crisp acidity. However, it was just pipped by the Cuvée Orelie, another long-term favourite of mine. The Pellehaut is available through Mitchell Son, and other independents around the country.
Cuvée Oreilie 2007, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de L'Ardèche, 12.5%, €9.95 An unusual blend of Sauvignon and Chardonnay that makes you wonder why more producers don't try it; the Sauvignon provides aroma and zip, the Chardonnay fruit and body. Together they form a delicious, lightly, fruity wine that is perfect for any midweek fish dinner, or for parties, too. Stockists: McHugh's, Kilbarrack Road; Wicklow Wine Co; Red Island Wine Co; Redmond's; Probus Wines; On the Grapevine; Martin's Off Licence; Mitchell's, Glasthule and IFSC; Gibney's Malahide; Bin No 9; Listons, Camden Street, Dublin 2; Wolfe's, Capel Street, Dublin 1.
Red
There were two finalists for best inexpensive red wine; one was the wonderfully juicy Laurent Miquel Grenache Syrah, available from Dunnes Stores at around €9. However, the Protocolo below won through with its beautiful warm Spanish fruits.
Protocolo 2006, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain, 13.5%, €9.99 A wine of the week a month or two back, this has delicious cherry and plum fruits, a little spice and a beautifully rounded finish. On the nose, it could be mistaken for a very posh wine indeed; the palate is pretty good too. Serve it blind to fans of Rioja and Ribera del Duero with some grilled lamb cutlets, and watch them light up. Stockist: O'Briens Wine Off-Licences
WHITE WINES
Monzinger Frülingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2007, Nahe, Emrich Schönleber, 12.5%, € 29.95A quick lesson in decoding German wines: Monzingen is the the town, Frülingsplätzchen the vineyard, Riesling the grape, Spätlese means late-gathered, Trocken means dry, Nahe is the region, and Emrich Schönleber is the producer. The wine is absolutely stunning.
First tasted on a trip to Germany, and later in Dublin, this will improve with another year or two in bottle, but will be difficult to resist right now. Big powerful rich wine with perfectly defined crisp pear and apple fruits, and a wonderful dry finish.
Stockists: Redmond's, Ranelagh; Wicklow Wine Co.
Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2002, Alsace, 12.5%, €39.95I first tasted this on a trip to Alsace, where the company, food and wine all came together perfectly. When on song, this is one of the great wines of the world, and in 2002, it is most definitely fully tuned. Superb clean flinty minerals and quince, with hints of orange peel, this is a light but intense wine with a fantastic lean, austere edge. The 2001 is excellent too, but the 2002 (only 4,000 cases were made, only 60 cases were imported into this country) is fairly close to my idea of perfection. Stockists: Hollands of Bray; Booze.ie; Donnybrook Fair; Ardkeen Superstores, Waterford.
RED WINES
Simone Joseph Syrah 2006 Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, 12.5%, €15.95I have had a huge amount of pleasure drinking several Vin de Pays wines from the Northern Rhône over the year. The piquant elegance of pure Syrah from this part of the world leaves the rest standing. I could have listed a few really superb Côte Rôtie, and a few Crozes-Hermitage too, but they all cost in excess of €20. This delightful light wine with its dark cherry and damson fruits and touch of liquorice is perfect with most white and red meats. At a mere 12.5% alcohol, you can afford to drink a few glasses, too. Stockists: Next Door at Myles Creek, Kilkee, Co Clare; The Wine Room at One Pery Square, Limerick; Sweeney's Off Licence, Finglas, Dublin 11; McCabe's, Blackrock.
Château Aydie Madiran 2005, 14.5%, €17.95I featured this wine just a few short weeks ago, but it made an indelible impression. I love the cool, firm dark wines of Cahors and Madiran. Sadly ignored by most of the wine world, they are brilliant food wines, particularly with red and white meats. Château d'Aydie has always been one of the leaders in the region, but I hadn't tasted it for a few years. I intend making up for this in the coming year. A glorious wine, full of dense brooding dark fruits, cloaked in smooth tannins, with a lasting finish. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Lilac Wines, Fairview; The Vineyard, Galway, and Thomas's, Foxrock.
Rioja Allende 2004, 13.5%, €24.95I have drunk this wine on a number of occasions over last year, and each time it has seduced all present. Miguel Angel de Gregorio is one the great new winemakers of Rioja, making wines that ooze class. Rounded soft ripe plums with a lovely velevty texture, light spice and excellent length. Great with lamb, chicken or firm cheese. Stockist: Berry Brothers Rudd, Dublin 2.
Shaw Smith Shiraz 2006, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, 14%, €28.99Shaw Smith is one of the most respected Australian producers around. I have not always shared the enthusiasm, except on this occasion. Riper than a northern Rhône, but with some lovely cherry and damson fruits, and lightly spicy new oak, this is a fairly full, but restrained Shiraz, an example of the more subtle styles that are emerging from Australia. Stockists: e-mail Ben.reynolds@libertywine.ie.
Savigny-Les Beaune Les Vergelesses 2004 Bize, 13.5%, €50I featured a Bourgogne Rouge from Bize during the year, but more recently tasted a range of his wines. This was the star of the tasting, a light aromatic wine with sweet/sour dark cherry and redcurrant fruits, and a lovely lingering finish. Stockists: McCabes, Blackrock; Donnybrook Fair.
Barolo Bussia Aldo Conterno 2001, 14%, €50This was a wine of the week in September, and I have dreaming about it since. Superb fragrant nose, cherries, dark chocolate and liquorice on the palate; an exquisite wine that will stay with me for years. Stockist: Best Cellars, tel: 01-4946508.
FLIGHTS OF FANCY
Frequently, I do not find very expensive wines worth the money. The price is a reflection of supply and demand, as well as the latest fashion amongst the super-rich. However, by being in the right place at the right time, I am sometimes lucky enough to taste some really special wines.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan 1982I bought this back in the late 1980s for the then very expensive price of £40 a bottle. Drunk with some friends over dinner, it was an astonishing wine; amazingly complex lush plum and cassis fruits showing some development, and a finish that went on for ever. It was only recently I saw it on sale for a mind-boggling €1,285 per bottle. However, I am sure it has fallen victim to the current economic crisis, and tumbled in price since then.
Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal 1996Forget all the hype and bling surrounding this wine. Given a few years age (and 1996 was a superb year in Champagne), it is one of the world's great wines. Drunk at a trade lunch, this had a magnificent toasty, honeyed palate, backed up by wonderful fresh acidity, and a great finish. The current vintage costs around €210, but will need a few years to show at its best. jwilson@irishtimes.com