WINE:Locating a supplier of interesting wines can be problematic outside big cities, so plan ahead, and think outside the box, writes John Wilson
ON A RECENT holiday abroad, I was made very aware of how difficult it can be to source wine once you leave the larger cities. Before we left Ireland, I felt confident that I could survive on beer, and whatever I could pick up in the local supermarket near our rented cottage. I therefore promised my family that there would be no long trips to specialist wine merchants.
I, and they, were sadly disappointed. I wasn't looking for fine or expensive wines, just a dozen or so bottles of something interesting, or at the very least drinkable. In both local shops, a small supermarket and a convenience store, I was faced with a very limited choice of unfamiliar inexpensive own-label wines from around the world and a few well-known brands.
In my experience, most cheap own-label European wines are pretty awful, so I plumped for the branded wines. I knew what I was buying, and could rely on it being drinkable. Consistency and reliability are the whole point of branded wines. My bottles of Jacob's Creek, Torres and Concha y Toro, along with a few others, kept me going for a few days until I managed to locate a decent wine shop.
In this country, the smaller symbol supermarkets can be a bit hit and miss; if the proprietor has an interest in wine, you may be pleasantly surprised. If not, you will be faced with a very uninspiring range from which to choose.
If you are going on holiday in Ireland, or live outside of the major cities, you have two options. The first is buying by mail order or online. There are now a number of specialist internet companies, but most wine merchants will be quite happy to deliver a case of wine anywhere in Ireland, within 24 hours, for a small fee. If you are about to head off to the country in a car packed with everything from golf clubs to boogie boards, or if you live in a remote area, this is a very good idea.
Alternatively, you could seek out your local specialist off-licence or wine shop. Each week, this column gives a list of stockists for each featured wine; most seem to be very similar. Sometimes I wonder if I am being unfair to those that do not receive a mention, but in fact it is merely a symptom of a trend. Most towns around Ireland now have at least one shop run by an individual with a real love of wine, and an interesting selection of wine. These people will be only too happy to offer intelligent advice, and assistance in finding wines to suit your palate. Do not be afraid to ask for advice - most are only too happy to share their knowledge.
Life as an independent off-licence or wine shop has never been easy, and the economic downturn will certainly not make it any easier to run a profitable business. In rural areas it can be a real labour of love. These people deserve our support and encouragement, whether we are just visiting, or living there year-round.
Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria 2007 12.5% €12.95:From one of the smarter addresses in Austria, a wonderful fresh, clean wine with elegant, slightly gingery green apple fruits. A great aperitif, good with seafood, and a real star with lightly spicy chicken and fish. The Wicklow Wine Co, Wicklow; Cabot's Source, Westport; Probus Wines, Oughterard; Red Island Wine, Skerries; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Donnybrook Fair; Jus de Vine, Portmarmock; Partridges, Gorey; Florries, Tramore; On the Grapevine, Dalkey.
Bergerie de l'Hortus Classique, vin de pays du Val de Montferrand 2007 13% €13.25
If you come across a bottle from Domaine de l'Hortus, buy it. You will not be disappointed. This is one of the greatest producers in the Languedoc. The reds in particular are outstanding, but the whites are pretty good too. This medium-bodied wine has a lovely streak of mineral acidity, countered by some delicious melon and orange fruits. Good on its own, but even better with food. Try it with sole or hake, baked with tomato and fresh herbs. By mail order from Wines Direct, 1890-579579, www.winesdirect.ie
Château Rauzan-Despagne, La Reserve, Bordeaux Blanc 2007 12% €14.00From one of the most forward-thinking producers in Bordeaux, a wonderful Sauvignon-based, refreshing, crisp dry white with lip-smacking clean green and citrus fruits, and a persistent dry finish. A great all-rounder to drink solo, or with most fish seafood, and salads. Macs, Limerick; Ardkeen Food Store, Waterford; Next Door Nationwide; Listons, Camden Street; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street; Mortons, Galway.
El Coto Rioja Crianza 2004 13% €12.95This was one of the few wines I did recognise in the supermarket on holiday, and I snapped up a bottle or two. El Coto makes some very fine Rioja, including this delicious Crianza. Soft, easy ripe strawberry and summer fruits with a lovely elegance and a silky finish. A great all-purpose summer wine. The Vineyard, Galway; Karwig Wines, Cork; Molloy's; Fresh Stores, Dublin; Walsh Wines, Dún Laoghaire; Morton's, Ranelagh; Deveney's, Dundrum; Anderson's, Glasnevin; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Coolers, Swords; Kelly's, Clontarf.
Any case, anywhere
If you do intend having a case of wine delivered to your holiday home or normal residence, for the month of August, Andy Kinsella of Bin No 9 in Clonskeagh is offering free delivery of a mixed case of wine to any address in Ireland. Call 01-2964844, or log on to www.BinNo9.com to make the necessary arrangements.
Bordeaux 2007:The 2007 vintage in Bordeaux has not been receiving quite the same plaudits as the previous two vintages. In fact, many critics have soundly drubbed the wines. However, thanks to Berry Brothers & Rudd, you now have the opportunity to make up your own mind. The Bordeaux experts will be holding their third annual en primeur tasting, on September 1st at the Residence Private Members Club, 41 St Stephen's Green, between 4pm and 8pm.
As before, cask samples of the young wine will be flown direct from Bordeaux to ensure freshness. There will be the opportunity to meet more than 20 Chateaux-owners, managers and winemakers from properties such as Domaine de Chevalier, Château Haut-Bailly and Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte. Tickets cost €35 from Berry Brothers on 01-6773444.