FERGAL MACERLEANclimbs Errigal's quiet north ridge – perhaps the finest way up the Co Donegal landmark
THE GLITTERING quartzite peak of Errigal dominates the northwestern corner of Ireland. Co Donegal’s highest mountain, at 752m, appears as a perfect cone from many angles, thrusting skyward from the bogs. Its true shape is more complex, however, with a northwest-trending bulk tapering to two peaks linked by an airy ridge.
This impressive mountain was revered by Ireland’s early peoples. Errigal was named by the Fir Bolgs, a marauding group of Greeks who, far from Mount Olympus, worshipped it as the seat of their deity. The name is derived from a compound of the Latin orare (prayer) and the Greek ekklesia (church). Scholars believe it is one of the oldest place names in Ireland, if not western Europe.
I’d long meant to climb Errigal’s rocky north ridge and was surprised at how quiet this approach is. Many say it’s the finest route to this landmark.
From the parking space walk south for 700m to a gate that leads to a bog track. Follow this, easily, for two kilometres to a junction, where you bear left on to a track through peat hags.
As you progress the dark waters of Altan Lough appear to the left, with shapely Aghla More above. There’s rarely a soul about. Ahead the horizon is dominated by Errigal and neighbouring Mackoght, both laden with scree. The path peters out, but the way ahead is obvious, leading to a small lough at the very foot of Errigal.
Keep left initially on a faint path and swing right by rocks to follow the main ridge. Farther on be prepared for a couple of short scrambles and some straightforward route-finding before reaching a path to the right of a rock wall. From there the ridge line is obvious.
From this vantage point you can gaze down on the huge sweep of Magheroarty Beach. Beyond, off Bloody Foreland, lie Inishbofinne, Inishdooey, Inishbeg and Tory Island.
The latter has a remarkable history and appearance, with a long finger of rock ending in cliffs. The legendary cyclops Balor of the Evil Eye lived there before the arrival of St Colmcille, who appointed the first king of Tory; the island has a king to this day.
The ridge leads to Errigal’s western summit, the lower of the two. I was glad I’d chosen a quiet way up, as the hill and connecting summit ridge were busy. Every year thousands traipse up Errigal from the Dunlewy road to the south – the easiest route to the top. Enjoyable as this approach is, sharing it with noisy groups can detract from the mountain experience.
Continue over the higher eastern summit and descend the southeast ridge – the main descent path – before striking off, over springy turf, to Mackoght (555m), followed by a climb to Beaghy (395m). The summit is by a cliff edge that overlooks Altan Lough. Looking behind, you could be forgiven for wondering where pointed Errigal has gone, as from this angle she presents her whaleback profile.
From the top of Beaghy descend east to join a good path that leads down to Altan Lough’s eerie southern shore. A ruin, formerly a local aristocrat’s retreat, adds to the sense of isolation. I didn’t tarry. From here enjoy the easy return path along the lough’s eastern shore. At the far end you have the satisfaction of being able to cast your eye over the entire route.
To finish cross the River Tullaghobegley and follow the road back to the car before a return to the narrow roads of this wild Gaeltacht heartland.
Errigal, Co Donegal
Start and finishParking space by Procklis Lough (grid reference B 936256).
How to get thereProcklis Lough is seven kilometres south of Falcarragh on minor roads.
Distance15km, with 880m of ascent.
TimeFive to seven hours.
MapOrdnance Survey of Ireland Discovery Series 1.
SuitabilityOnly suitable for experienced hillwalkers.