Great art can take you somewhere special, so it's well worth travelling to see it as GEMMA TIPTONfound out at a Picasso exhibition in Zurich
HE WAS ONE of the world’s first art “superstars”, and my goodness, Picasso could paint. Walking through the rooms of the Picasso exhibition at Zürich’s Kunsthaus, I was reminded of this so forcefully that, and I know it sounds corny, I began to think there might be some hope for the world.
His early paintings were simply so beautiful, his experiments that became Cubism so groundbreaking and brave, and he opened up such a possibility for looking at things in a different way, that I was quite transported.
Great art can do that for you, which is why, when great art is on show, it’s well worth making a journey for. The Picasso exhibition in Zürich is extra special, as it has been recreated from an exhibition first put together by the artist himself in 1932. The world in the 1930s bears some similarity to the present: economic recession, a collapse in spending and in the markets. That’s why Picasso persuaded his dealers to work with him on a museum show, and why the Kunsthaus in Zürich was happy to oblige.
The results were a public success, but financially more of a failure. Some works had been lent by collectors: including Gertrude Stein, Pierre Matisse, and the Bloomsbury Sets Clive Bell; but many more were for sale and, in the end, just one went – to the Kunsthaus itself, and even that, as Kunsthaus curator, Tobia Bezzola, told me “they bargained him down brutally for”.
During his lifetime, Picasso was hugely prolific, and not all his art is of the same standard, however this exhibition is pure wonder from start to finish.
I wandered on into the rest of the museum, which has a fantastic collection, including Monets, more Picassos, Kandinskys, Chagalls, Giacomettis, as well as old masters and contemporary works. The old part of the building, designed at the turn of the last century, is worth seeing alone. Art nouveau in style, some galleries have been preserved with original furniture and decoration.
Zürich is an art lover’s paradise. Perhaps because of the banking wealth, which has gone underground though not entirely disappeared, there are more than 100 galleries here, and 14 art museums. The main concentration is along the Ränustrasse, and more are usually to be found in the former Löwenbräu brewery, though this is currently being renovated.
Despite the Swiss reputation for quiet conformity, there’s an experimental heart beating underneath. The Cabaret Voltaire, part of the story of Dada is here, and in two of the main churches: the Grossmünster, which is on the edge of the winding cobbled streets of the atmospheric old town, and the Fraümunster; there are glorious stained glass windows by Sigmar Polke, Augusto Giacometti, and Marc Chagall – which alone would be worth a trip to the city. And for lovers of more edgy contemporary art, the Migros Museum (migrosmuseum.ch) has an exhibition (till November 28th), quite literally, about the body politic. It includes a bar of soap by Gianni Motti, allegedly made with fat liposuctioned from Italian premier Silvio Berlusconi.
* The Picasso exhibition runs until January 30, 2011. Admission: CHF 22 (€16.50). See kunsthaus.ch
Where to stay and eat
Where to stay
When Picasso stayed in Zürich he insisted on the best and stayed at the Baur au Lac, still Zürich’s finest hotel. With rates from €405 for a single, you may want to just have coffee in the atmospheric lounge or the gorgeous gardens. Tel: 00-41-442205020 or bauraulac.ch.
Zürich Tourism has hotel packages, including admission to the Picasso exhibition. See zuerich.com.
Where to eat
Zürich West is a new quarter in a former industrial area. Full of bars and restaurants housed in arches under the railway, there’s also a farmers’ market. Nearby, La Salle (lasalle-restaurant.ch) is a glass cube of an eatery in a former boat building factory.
On Spiegelgasse you’ll find the Cabaret Voltaire, pivotal in the birth of Dada, and recently restored, hosting a bar as well as exhibitions and events (cabaretvoltaire.ch).
Restaurant Kronenhalle (kronenhalle.com) is an institution, with some very tasty art works on the wall. James Joyce used to go there and legend has it he often “forgot” to pay. The food the night I went wasn’t spectacular, but the little bar, described by the original owners as “so dignified and beautiful that women would visit it on their own” more than made up for it.
Tips
Language: German. Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF). Keep an eye on prices, it’s an expensive city.
A Zürich Card gives full use of city trains, trams, boats and buses, plus admission to many museums, and discounts in some restaurants and shops. Cost: €12 for 24 hours (children €8.50), and €24 for 72 hours (children €17). Available at the airport and train station. See zuerich.com.
Get there
Swiss International Air Lines has direct flights from Dublin to Zürich (swiss.com).
Zürich airport has a direct rail link to the city centre, with trains every few minutes. Journey times around 10 minutes.