There's nothing like watching the sun rising on the coast of Antigua to see this Caribbean island in all its glory, writes ALANNA GALLAGHER
ON ANTIGUA life is a beach and the pace is slow. The Caribbean island is fringed by kilometre after kilometre of powder-fine white sand fringed by opalescent water.
The seduction process is a slow burn. The interior of the island is so underwhelming that you will question your judgment when you leave the airport. The highlights of the drive to the coast are the pineapple motifs – symbols of welcome in the Caribbean – that decorate homesteads of all shapes and sizes.
Some mornings will feel muggy and overcast, with not a jot of turquoise water in sight. But then the ocean gets its curtain call, and at 8.30am precisely, like magic, a broad strip of greeny blue starts to ring the sandy coastline and a navy line frames the horizon.
Minimalists might love the smooth, clean lines of Half Moon Bay, an off-the-beaten-track expanse of white sand on the Atlantic east coast, the windward side of the island, where there’s plenty of wave action.
If you prefer to soak up the local vibe, then head to Pigeon’s Point Beach at Falmouth Harbour, which flies below most tourists’ radars – the residents like to keep this one to themselves. This beach has shade, gentle waves, golden sand, picnic tables and a pier for perfecting your diving. When you get hungry head to Bumpkins for a feed of grilled shrimp washed down with a banana pina colada.
Ffreys Beach, to the west , is a work of art, with sculptural pieces of driftwood sunken into the sand, while Jabberwock Beach, to the north, is a kite- and windsurfers’ dream, even if it is untidy by the island’s standards. If sunloungers are crucial to your seaside experience, then Dickenson Bay, on the northwest coast, is for you.
As a holiday destination, Antigua is compact and easy to get around. It takes 45 minutes to drive across, or you could hire a bike or dune buggy and explore the island one beach at a time. Temperatures remain between 25 and 30 degrees, and warm trade winds will keep you feeling breezy.
The only thing to do on this island is “lime” – Creole slang for relaxing and enjoying nature in all its salty glory. Oodles of charters offer you the chance to get on the water, snorkel and nature watch. Pelicans drop to catch fish, and there’s a wealth of sea life to see while snorkelling, from the coral of Cades Reef to barracuda and, if you’re lucky, a turtle.
A day trip to Antigua’s other half, Barbuda – a smaller island that, with uninhabited Redonda, makes up the state of Antigua and Barbuda – is a ferry hop away. If you think the beaches on Antigua are special, then Barbuda’s empty pink sands will really thrill your toes.
Antigua is one of the world’s big sailing destinations – sailors account for up to one in 10 tourists. The 43rd Antigua Sailing Week takes place from April 24th to 30th. Last year Adrian Lee, a Dubliner, and his team won the first Antigua Ocean Series.
And you can’t talk about the Caribbean without referring to its pirate past. The Wexford pirate Anne Bonny sailed these waters with Calico Jack, the 18th-century English buccaneer.
Named but not explored by Columbus in 1493, Antigua was colonised by the British in 1632, after which it became a strategic port. Slavery and the sugar trade cast long shadows, and remnants of sugar mills dot the hillsides.
Carnival is an annual event on the island. Held in the last week of July and first week of August, it features calypso, soca and 20th-century steel-drum and iron bands. If you’re really in the mood, J’Ouvert is a pre-dawn party that starts at 4am on Carnival Monday.
As well as sugar mills, the island is dotted with forts the British constructed to protect the island from invasion. Nelson’s Dockyard, built to repair ships locally, is the world’s sole remaining Georgian dockyard; it has marinas, a museum and two heritage-style hotels.
For kids there’s Pirates of Antigua, a mini-cruise on which you might have to walk the plank; Stingray City, where you can feed and swim with these large fish; and snorkelling in some of the clearest waters in the Caribbean. There’s also SubCat Antigua, which offers underwater excursions through spectacular coral reefs, with a chance to see snapper, barracuda, stingrays and angelfish without getting wet.
Back on dry land, the Thursday barbecue at Shirley Heights Lookout is a weekly highlight that offers all of the above as well as views across the island.
And when the rum goes to your head and you start to feel homesick, grab a locally brewed Guinness to compare and contrast. At more than 7 per cent alcohol, this brew is export strength.
Antigua is a sold as a destination for couples – honeymooners in particular. But it’s selling itself short. It’s also a great place to take children. The best-value options for families are all-inclusive resorts, but make lunch a picnic and explore all this beautiful island has to offer.
Where to stay
Jolly Beach Resort. 00-1-268-4620061, jollybeachresort.com. One of the few three-star resorts on the island offering all-inclusive packages, with kids’ and teens’ clubs, non-motorised water sports, a hammock club and nightly entertainment.
Hawksbill by Rex Resorts. Five Islands, 00-1-268-4620301, rexresorts.com/_caribbean. Another three-star family- friendly all-inclusive option.
If you prefer a more authentic experience, then stay in one of the small hotels, inns or resorts on antiguavip. com. These include the charming Copper and Lumber Store Historic Inn, in Nelson’s Dockyard. Or book a villa through caribrepvillas. com or paradisepropertiesltd.com.
Where to eat
The Backyard Bar. Sir Vivian Richards’ Street, St John’s. The bar is, as the name suggests, in the owner’s backyard. It has a Caribbean-Spanish flavour, with conch fritters, pork ribs and simple burgers hot off the coals on Friday nights and Saturdays.
Dennis’s Bar and Restaurant. 00-1-268- 7285086, denis.ipage.ag. See the sun go down at this bar on the hill between Ffreys Beach and Little Ffreys. Bag one of the bluffside decks, suck on a cold Carib beer and enjoy shrimp salad as you watch another perfect day come to an end.
Saturday is barbecue day in Antigua, with a number of vendors setting up shop on the side of the road. They sell conch water (a seafood soup), goat water (a goat stew) and pepper pot (the national dish). For seafood try Parnham Corner, a lunchtime eatery in the north, on the corner of the Parnham and Factory Road intersection, or Carvella’s Cook Shop, at Crabbe Street in Crabbe Hill village, in the west of the island. Wash the meal down with coconut water served in the shell.
Where to go
Shirley Heights Lookout Restaurant and Bar, 00-1- 268-7280636, shirleyheights lookout.com. On a clear day you can see Guadeloupe, to the south, and Montserrat, with its volcano smoking, to the southwest. The barbecues here on Thursdays and Sundays are an Antiguan institution.
Tropical Adventures. 00-1-268-4801225, tropicalad.com The only way to appreciate all Antigua has to offer is from the sea. Tropical Adventures will take you to visit the nearby island of Barbuda. Aboard a catamaran you eat lunch, stop to snorkel and tour the Frigate Bird Sanctuary.
Caribbean Helicopters. 00-1-268-4605900, caribbeanhelicopters.com. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a helicopter day trip to smouldering Montserrat and see Mother Nature at her most destructive. Caribbean Helicopters’ 45-minute flying tour of Montserrat over Soufrière Hills volcano costs $240 (€175) per person.
Go there
British Airways (ba.com) and Virgin Atlantic (virgin- atlantic.com) fly to Antigua from London Gatwick. Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies to Gatwick from Cork, Dublin and Knock; Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Cork, Dublin and Shannon.
See antigua-barbuda.org and antiguanice.com