The Cat Laughs Comedy Festival, which takes place next weekend, is just one of many reasons to head to the city, writes Michael Parsons
Why go?
Nightlife, shopping, history and hurling. A quirky
and cleverly packaged combination of highbrow and hoedown has
turned Kilkenny into one of the country's most popular visitor
destinations. Lively pubs attract a young weekend crowd that,
despite some negative media reports, generally enjoys a
trouble-free, high-spirited and good-humoured time. But there's
much more to the Marble City than boozy nightlife. The ambience is
welcoming, friendly and easy-going, although its citizens can have
notions - notably in their zealous attachment to "city" status,
which derives from a royal charter of 1609. A greater-area
population of about 22,000 means the State regards Kilkenny as a
town under the Local Authorities Act. But Dublin slickers and,
especially, folk from Waterford - which, to Kilkenny's chagrin, has
the coveted official city status - would do well not to scoff.
When to go
Any time. Tourism is the main industry, and Kilkenny
is well-geared to handling visitors all year round. The narrow
medieval streets can become congested during the peak summer
season, when crowds are swelled by day-trippers. Two popular annual
events - next weekend's Smithwick's Cat Laughs Comedy Festival (
www.thecatlaughs.com),
from Thursday until bank-holiday Monday, and Kilkenny Arts Festival
(
www.kilkennyarts.ie), from
August 8th to 17th - draw huge numbers. Booking tickets and
accommodation in advance is advised for both.
Where to stay
There's an extensive range of hotels, from budget to
five-star. Many offer good-value weekend packages. The plushest
central choices are the four-star Ormonde (Ormonde Street,
056-7723900,
www.kilkennyormonde.com), which has ample secure parking and an
attractive leisure centre, and River Court (the Bridge, John
Street,
www.rivercourthotel. com,
056-7723388), which is swanky despite its obscure entrance. Ask for
a room with a view. For tranquillity and pampering try the
five-star Lyrath Estate (Dublin Road, 056-7760088,
www.lyrath.com), a sleek luxury
hotel and spa grafted on to an old country house, about three
kilometres from the centre.
Where to eat
There's a wide choice - of price and quality - from
Indian to Italian, and no shortage of variations on "modern" Irish
cuisine. Current favourites include the Ground Floor (98 High
Street, 056-7723522) or Chez Pierre (17 Parliament Street,
056-7764655) for morning coffee, pastries, scones and reading the
papers; lunch at the Marble City, the best cafe-bar in the
southeast (66 High Street, 056-7761143); afternoon tea at the
comfortable lounge of the Ormonde Hotel; and dinner at the
bistro-style Café Sol (William Street, 056-7764987,
www.cafesolkilkenny.com). Book restaurants in advance - the
most popular can be very busy - especially on summer weekends.
Where to party
Hot spots include Parliament Street, with a clutch
of pubs facing the brewery; Rose Inn Street, where Lanigan's
(056-7721718,
www.lanigans.ie) creates the
biggest buzz; and John Street (close to the railway station) - not
quite the Reeperbahn of the southeast, despite lurid headlines, but
the main night-town drag, with a variety of pubs, clubs and
cheap-and-cheerful eateries. First-time visitors should check out
Langton House Hotel (056- 7765133,
www.langtons.ie), a favourite
watering hole of Kilkenny hurlers, which comprises hotel, bars,
function rooms, restaurant, nightclub and vast heated beer garden
to warm the cockles of smokers' hearts. More sedate drinkers have
plenty of choice, with atmospheric pubs dotted throughout the
city.
What to see
Among a wealth of well-preserved medieval buildings,
the must-sees include Kilkenny Castle (beautifully restored and
maintained by the Office of Public Works); the Tudor Rothe House
Garden (056-7722893,
www.rothehouse.com); and St
Canice's Cathedral (056-7764971), with an adjoining round tower,
which rewards those fit enough to climb its staircase with
impressive views. There's an open-top bus tour for the less
energetic, but the city is very walkable. Note the streets paved
with locally quarried limestone, which is speckled with white,
crescent-shaped fossils from the ancient seabed. When polished,
this stone achieves a shiny black surface and is known as Kilkenny
marble - hence Marble City.
What to buy
Jewellery from some of the country's best craftsmen,
country-look Nicholas Mosse pottery and napery, Chesneau handbags,
chunky Jerpoint glass and a hurley. Despite the encroachment of the
usual British high-street shops, there's still a refreshingly local
dimension to retailing, with many family-owned, traditional shops.
The showcase Kilkenny Design Centre shop (
www.kilkennydesign.com), opposite the castle, is a magnet for
visitors. Visit the workshops of the gold- and silversmiths tucked
away behind Stable Yard and commission a bespoke piece if nothing
on display tickles your fancy. Top cat is JMK (James Mary Kelly)
Goldsmiths - best-known for designing the silver Liam McCarthy
All-Ireland hurling trophy, which rarely leaves Kilkenny.
What's special
The heartland of hurling is the best place in the
country to see the national sport. If you're lucky you might catch
the senior county team in an intercounty match at Nowlan Park
stadium, and even their training sessions can attract large crowds.
But even a local club game will likely involve some of Ireland's
best players.
In good weather, take your aperitif on the Noreside terrace of the River Court Hotel (for details, see Where to stay). It is open to non-residents, and the views of the castle are magical.
Just yards from the bustle of the High Street, and hidden by a high stone wall, the castle's delightful rose garden features elegant statues, a soothing fountain and a viewing platform over the river. Stroll through to a sweeping 50-hectare (120-acre) park - the lungs of the city - for excellent, safe walking, great views to the Blackstairs mountains and oodles of space for dogs and children.
Rothe House garden, off Parliament Street, is also perfect for escaping the crowds and the shops. Take a picnic by stocking up on delicious home-cooked food from Blueberry Larder, in Market Yard.
What's nearby
The city has more than enough to preoccupy even the
fussiest visitor for at least a few days, but the surrounding
countryside has lovely river valleys, with unspoilt villages such
as Bennettsbridge, Thomastown and Inistioge (in the Nore Valley),
and Goresbridge and Graiguenamanagh (Barrow Valley), all well worth
a look.
What's a letdown
Traffic congestion - compounded by a lack of public
transport - can be chronic. The centre is in dire need of at least
partial pedestrianisation or a one-way system, but, despite decades
of hand-wringing by the council, neither is on the cards any time
soon. And, in a city that claims to be a heritage and arts capital,
the bookshops are dull, the public art collection is in "permanent"
storage, the Butler Gallery (056-7761106,
www.butlergallery.com)
languishes "temporarily" in cramped cellars of the castle and
there's more than a sprinkling of ugly buildings despite a
reputation for strict planning.
Top tip
For a weekend break from Dublin, consider taking the
train from Heuston Station. You'll avoid the traffic congestion,
and Kilkenny has plenty of taxis when you arrive.