With big festivals, impressive architecture and 130,000 students, this fast-paced city will give you a flavour of modern Poland, writes Magda Jelonkiewicz
I HAVE ALWAYS thought the similarity between the Poles and the Irish can be explained by our histories of oppression, Catholic upbringing, love of drink and potato diets. If you add to this list acute business sense, reliability and a strong national pride, you will end up with a portrait of the people of Poznan. They know who they are, how to do business and how to have fun.
Poznan, which is affectionately known as Pyrlandia, or "land of the potato", is located on the Paris-Moscow axis and has been a significant trade centre for centuries. The economic boom of the 1990s brought foreign investors, and since then the city has been growing, developing and modernising.
It is home to more than 130,000 students, which makes for a fast-paced setting. This year the annual spring students' festival, Juwenalia, takes place from Thursday to next Saturday. Nowadays, the organisers favour open-air concerts and exhibitions, where previously there were wacky competitions to see how many students could fit in a tram. (Judging by the state of the traffic, though, this particular tradition seems to live on.)
The city centre is quite compact, so you can see most of the sights on foot. Poznan has a number of monumental, awe- inspiring buildings right in the centre, along busy streets with trams rattling by.
To get truly acquainted, venture out to the city districts, each with a distinctive architectural style representing different eras.
The meticulously restored renaissance-baroque Market Square, with its gem of a town hall, is Poznan's postcard image, the ideal place for socialising and exquisite dining.
The residential areas of Solacz and Jezyce are not always listed in guide books, but they are worth a visit. Solacz features 19th-century villas and a beautiful landscaped garden, while Jezyce is home to beautifully ornamented art-deco tenement houses and a typical Polish open-air market. You can buy pretty much anything here, from fresh produce to clothing and homeware, or just engage in a spot of people-watching.
Culture fans will not be disappointed, either. The Malta International Theatre Festival (00-48-61-6465243, www.malta-festival.pl/en) takes place from June 23rd to 28th and attracts a fervent following, and Era Jazzu ( www.jazz.pl) organises jazz concerts in the city, featuring contemporary international jazz stars and emerging talents.
Recently introduced theme evenings, such as Museum Night, when museums open their doors until late, free of charge, have met with keen interest. The biggest party is reserved for November 11th, the city patron's day. Like his Irish equivalent, St Martin crowns the street parade, which opens the festivities.
If you visit at this time, don't miss out on the renowned rogale marcinskie - croissants filled with a delicious mixture of crushed almonds, poppy seeds and orange peel. They're only sold on this day.
Though Poznan may not spring immediately to mind when thinking of a city break in Europe, it strongly represents modern Poland. The city has a wealth of entertainment options, from sightseeing and dining to shopping and sports. As for nightlife, pubs stay open until the last customer staggers out, so you can party to your heart's content.
Where to stay, where to eat out and where to go if you're heading to the city for a weekend away
5 places to stay
IBB Andersia Hotel, Plac Andersa 3,
00-48-61-6678000,
www.andersiahotel.pl.
Modern, elegant four-star hotel opposite Stary Browar shopping
centre and within walking distance of the Old Town.
Domina Residence, Ul Sw Marcin 2, 00-48-61-8590590, http://tinyurl.com/63xl64. Forty-one luxurious apartments on St Martin's Street, in the city centre, within walking distance of all main sights.
Hotel Brovaria, Stary Rynek 73/74, 00-48-61-8586868, www.brovaria.pl. Sixteen rooms and one apartment, located in an old tenement house in the Old Square. This three-star hotel has an excellent restaurant and its own brewery. Say no more.
Mercure Hotel, Ul Roosevelta 20, 00-48-61- 8558000, http://tinyurl.com/5e2bcs. This four-star hotel has been fully refurbished since it was built, in the communist era. Popular with business travellers because of its proximity to the trade centre.
Novotel Poznan Malta, Ul Warszawska 64/66, 00-48-61-6543100, www.novotel.com. Three-star accommodation beside Lake Malta, in a peaceful area away from the busy city. Rooms are basic but clean.
5 places to eat
Dom Vikingów, Stary Rynek 62,
00-48-61-8527153,
www.domvikingow.pl/eng.
A cafe, restaurant, bar and club in one. Popular with businessmen.
Former Polish president Aleksander Kwasniewski and Russian prime
minister Vladimir Putin have dined here.
Bazanciarnia, Stary Rynek 94, 00-48-61-8553358, www.bazanciarnia.pl. Fusion cuisine with Polish accents. This is one of top Polish chef Magda Gessler's outlets. Interesting rustic interior.
Restauracja Kresowa, Stary Rynek 3, 00-48-61-8531291. This is right in the middle of Market Square. Serves excellent Polish and Eastern cuisine. Popular with locals.
Pod Koziolkami, Stary Rynek 95. 00-48-61-8517868. The ground floor has a salad bar and serves light lunches; the grill cellar serves excellent old-style Polish cuisine.
Restauracja Milano Elegant, Wielkopolska 42, 00-48-61-8528745, www.milano.poznan.pl. Top-class Italian restaurant in the villa district of Solacz.
5 places to go
National Museum - Muzeum Narodowe, Al
Marcinkowskiego 9, 00-48-61-8568117,
www.mnp.art.pl. Art lovers
should visit the extensive Polish and European collection here.
Pop into one of the many coffee shops in the Old Town and try the famous Polish cheesecake or apple pie. Kawiarnia Galeria Kamea has an excellent choice of desserts. Ul Zydowska 2/3, 00-48-61-8517211.
Feast your eyes on the magnificent baroque interior of the Church of St Stanislaus the Bishop, known as the Parish Church ("Fara"), Ul Swietoslawska, while listening to a free organ concert, held on Saturdays at 12.15pm. After the concerts it is possible to see the vaults of the church.
Ewa Wycichowska's Polish Dance Theatre, Ul Kozia 4, 00-48-61-8524242/41, www.ptt-poznan.pl. If you want a spectacle, book one at this world-renowned venue.
Lake Malta, Ul Wiankowa 3, 00-48-61-8766011. Adventurous types should head for Poznan's recreational centre, which includes a dry ski slope, toboggan rides, mini-golf, cycling and rollerblading paths, and a zoo. Water-skiing and a hot spring "aquapark" are planned for completion by 2011.
Hit the shops
Stary Browar, Ul Polwiejska 32,
00-48-61-8596022,
www.starybrowar.pl. For
first-class retail therapy, check this out. Named best European
shopping centre in 2005. It has an array of shops, plus an arts
centre - with a diverse programme of theatre, dance, music and fine
art - all in a breathtaking red-brick and metal construction.
Hot spot
Lizard King, Stary Rynek 86, 00-48-61-8550472,
www.lizardking.pl. Undoubtedly the best place to party in town,
with live rock music and a wide selection of food and drink.
What to avoid
"Private" taxis lined up in front of hotels, train
stations and various other locations. They charge more than regular
radio taxis, which can be ordered free of charge at your hotel.
Also, you can be fined for sitting on the grass in public parks or
for jaywalking.
Go there
Ryanair (
www.ryanair.com) flies from
Dublin to Poznan on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.