Salmon is a favourite, but many fish taste great after a spell in the smokehouse, writes Hugo Arnold
No side of smoked salmon is ever the same as the last one. I tell myself this every time I start to carve one. The first slice needs to be tried, for research purposes only. But it is only an indication. Being at the thinner end of the fish it can taste over-smoked and over-cured, so a second slice is imperative. For a balanced view of course. The smoking needs to be carefully introduced, so the fish still shines. And the texture needs to be moist without being slippery. Melt-in-the mouth texture is not easy to achieve.
We produce some of the best smoked salmon in the world, and if you consider wild salmon, we have four world-renowned and recognised smokers (see box). But why stop at salmon? Mackerel smokes up a treat, kippers are good, too, and haddock makes the best fish pie. I know enthusiasts who are keen on smoking sausages, cheese and even chicken, but I have yet to be convinced.
Smoked mackerel makes the best pâté, and a bowl of it is regularly to hand at this time of year. On toast, it makes the perfect cocktail partner, and with a salad it is the perfect starter. A kipper is king at breakfast. It is traditional to heat it in a jug of hot water and serve with melted butter. But this fish, too, makes a wonderful pate. As for haddock, it shines in a fish pie and makes a mean quick supper when topped with a poached egg. For something more elaborate, try topping it with a cheese sauce and then glazing it under the grill. The results is a sort of Welsh rarebit with piscine attitude.
Most Irish people grimace at the mention of eel, but the French love it. A blob of horseradish cream will suffice as an accompaniment, while some crispy bacon renders it a surf and turf-style dish to equal, if not better, more common partnerships.
I had a dish of smoked scallops and squid recently, both partnered with pickled vegetables, which made for a light winter starter of distinction. Smoked salmon can be treated in the same way to make a change from the classic brown bread. It is about this time of year that my mail box fills with requests from readers looking for ideas for serving smoked salmon.
My idea this year is to cut the fish into dice and mould into rings. Salmon eggs could add a textural contrast and look like jewels glinting in the candlelight. The dressing might be black pepper and olive oil, or maybe even soy and grated ginger for an eastern touch.
Serving an assortment of smoked fish is common in the Baltic, so why not here? How about a plate variously covered with salmon, trout and mackerel, along with a powerful horseradish cream, and maybe some of the salmon eggs mentioned above.
Blinis are easy to source and these, or potato pancakes, make for a stylish accompaniment to any smoked fish.
Smoked cod's roe is not the easiest ingredient to find, but this key ingredient in taramasalata is a delight simply spread on toast and topped with olive oil and lemon juice. For something that takes moments to do, the result is pretty impressive.
If you find yourself with too much smoked salmon, try it for breakfast with cream cheese, lots of lemon juice and a bagel or some toast. I prefer toast; less chewing. And coffee never tasted better.
WHAT TO DO WITH THE SKIN If slicing your own salmon, rather than buying it pre-sliced, don't bin the skin. Lightly oil and salt and grill it, so it crisps up and colours. Flake into salads or soups.