WHERE TO STAY There are several chic hotels along the main Sheikh Zayed Road, and the more central Bur Dubai is more affordable, but there's really only one place to stay in Dubai: beside the wide, sandy beaches of Jumeirah. Hotels here include the vast One & Only Royal Mirage, which recently provided a backdrop in the film Syriana.
There is also the more formal Ritz-Carlton or the smaller Jumeirah Beach Club. Out in the desert you can stay at the mega-luxurious, conservation-award-winning Al Maha resort.
WHAT TO DO For some kind of perspective on the modern city, wander around Bastakia, a restored residential district built at the turn of the 20th century that has traditional houses with air-cooling wind towers. Don't miss out on a desert safari. Many companies offer packages, from desert driving courses to dune-bashing followed by a barbecue, camel rides and belly-dancing in a Bedouin-style camp. Horse racing and breeding play an important role in Arab culture; races take place every Thursday at the Nad Al Sheba track. Occasional camel races take place here, too.
WHERE TO EAT Dubai is a crossroads between East and West, and you can sample food that ranges from Lebanese to French, Vietnamese to Moroccan. The British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay has an outpost called Verre at the Hilton Dubai Creek. For a memorable splurge, try the sleek, glass-encased Bateaux Dubai boats, which offer night cruises along the creek that show off the stunning architecture of downtown Dubai and serve excellent meals. And for potentially the most flashy - and expensive - meal you're ever likely to eat, make a reservation at the Al Muntaha restaurant, at the top of the Burj Al Arab.
NIGHTLIFE Dubai's nightlife has exploded in recent years, with bars such as the Rooftop Terrace at the One & Only Royal Mirage hotel, the outdoor bar at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel and the Buddha Bar at the new Grosvenor House hotel being hip and happening most nights. For a more clubby vibe, head to Trilogy, spread over three floors at the Souk Madinat Jumeirah.
SHOPPING The prices of many goods in the tax-free maze of malls, markets, hotel shops, souks and "shopping festivals" are actually about the same as you would pay at home. Gold, diamonds, textiles, fabrics, bespoke shirts and suits, antique carpets and rugs, and some electronics are the exceptions, especially if you haggle. Basic rule: never accept any of the first three "best prices" you're offered.
WAY TO GO Holidays in Dubai are available from many Irish travel companies, including Sunway (01-2311893, www.sunway.ie), Escape 2 (01-8085464, www.escape2.ie) and United Travel (01-2159300, www.unitedtravel.ie). Prices for a week in the summer (when temperatures can be as high as 40 degrees) start at about €900 per person sharing, including Aer Lingus flights, transfers and accommodation, rising to nearer €1,800 for winter months and stays in luxury hotels. For a tourist information pack, call 00-44-20-78390580 or see www.dubaitourism.ae