IBERIAN ADVENTURE:Look farther afield than Rioja for a taste of Spain
The building looked like one of those old purpose-built factories that sit forlornly in the middle of nowhere as if dropped from the sky. In the distance was the castle of Fuensaldaña, the provisional home of the legislature of Castile and León, and, beyond that, the relatively big smoke of Valladolid. A viciously cold wind whipped our faces.
We knocked on the door. No answer. More knocks, then a sheepish Bruce Springsteen opened the door. It wasn't Springsteen, of course, but Ignacio Príncipe is a ringer for the rock star circa 1982.
Príncipe isn't a star yet, but he has the goods to become one in the wine world. He makes one red wine, but what a red wine it is. His richly complex César Príncipe 2004 is made from Tempranillo grapes - the grapes of the region - that have been harvested by hand from 60-year-old vines in the cool heights of Cigales, a small region in northwestern Spain. The 2004 was only his fifth vintage. He says the 2005 will be very good, and he expects the same of the 2006.
What's happening in this historic area to the west of Ribero del Duero is typical of the way small, unheralded wine regions are finding their strengths. In Castile and León there is also Rueda and Toro. Elsewhere Bierzo, Jumilla and Somontano are examples of new names to look out for. Invariably you will find there has been a local tradition of winemaking. Cigales, for example, was renowned for its rosado, or rosé. Indeed, the grapes that were fermenting in Príncipe's small modern winery were harvested from vines his grandfather used to make rosado. There is a downside to this high, exposed area, however. Cigales can be very inhospitable for a vine, with late frosts and cold and savage winds.
Príncipe's wine is not yet available here, but we can get the impressive wines of La Legua, also from Cigales. This modern winery and well-kept vineyard, perched 750m above sea level, is driven by the passion of Emeterio Fernandez, a retired dentist. From its top wine, Capricho (see bottles of the week), to the lively fruit-filled flavours of the entry-level La Legua Joven, this well-managed operation exhibits care and attention to detail.
It has a good story to tell, and marketing manager Maria Bartolomé Torre is the right woman to tell it. She put in a strong performance at an impressive portfolio tasting at BrechinWatchorn, the Dublin off-licence, recently. She believes that Cigales is long overdue its time in the sun and that its Tempranillo- dominated wines offer great quality and value.