A stretch of coastline rich in natural attractions

At this time of year the Copper Coast is a sequestered territory, traversed only by its native inhabitants and the few traders…

At this time of year the Copper Coast is a sequestered territory, traversed only by its native inhabitants and the few traders who call in the course of business. Even during the tourist season, the region is a quiet backwater, free from the excessive pressures associated with mass tourism.

Yet, this 20-mile stretch of coastline between the Co Waterford towns of Tramore and Dungarvan is rich in natural attractions and historical curiosities. It has Blue Flag beaches, towering cliffs and sea-stacks, rivers and boglands teeming with wildlife, and six small villages, each with their individual characteristics and charm.

The local tourist committee has produced a modest brochure which commends the region's seclusion. "The whole area," it says, "is virtually unscarred by modern construction and lifestyle, giving (it) an unspoiled traditionally Irish ambience in both scenery and service alike."

As its name suggests, the Copper Coast was not always quiet and unexploited. Gaunt buildings and the remains of giant chimneys and engine houses dotted along the cliffs are testimony to the intensive copper mining operations that took place in the 19th century. In 1824, some 1,500 people worked in the mines, with shafts reaching depths of a quarter of a mile and the same distance out under the sea-bed.

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Some older members of the declining local community can point to a direct family connection with the mining operations. Eileen Torpey, now aged 75, lives on a side road near the secluded little harbour of Boatstrand.

Her cottage has no electricity. Her mother, who lived to be 98, would not have the ESB connected when the poles arrived in 1940, and Eileen has carried on that tradition - preferring her open fire and oil lamp, and listening to the news on a battery radio.

Her grandfather worked in the nearby Bunmahon mines, and when those workings were abandoned he emigrated to the mining town of Butte, Montana - as did hundreds, perhaps thousands, of other Co Waterford and West Cork copper miners.

Without employment from the mines, the local population declined steadily, and she has watched the inexorable change brought about by the inwards migration of a different generation. "It is all newcomers, coming in every day," she remarks.

One of the more positive developments brought about by the influx of new blood also happens to be located beside Boatstrand. Waterford Woodcraft, a centre for wood-turning for nearly 20 years, appears to be the only indigenous craft outlet in the area open to visitors all year-round.

The husband and wife team of Bruce and Heather McDonald, both wood-turners, produces a range of elegant small objects in polished beech, elm, yew, bog oak and other timbers - lidded boxes, bowls, candle and lamp holders, pen holders and paperweights are some of the items displayed in the small craft shop beside their thatched cottage.

Heather is originally from Sussex while Bruce is a native of Sydney, Australia. "When we first came here we were just regarded as a bunch of hippies," he says. "Now I think there is an acceptance of crafts as a small industry."

The McDonalds are conscientious about the sourcing of their raw material. "We never cut down trees," says Heather. "People phone us from all around the place to let us know about fallen trees." She is still working on timber from trees brought down in the big storm of 1988.

The natural burrs and flaws in the woods are allowed to come through in the finished objects, enhancing their individuality and beauty. The grain in the polished yew is particularly striking.

Since they put down roots and began raising their children here, the McDonalds, too, have seen changes along the little-known Copper Coast. "When we started here the tourist season ended after the races in Tramore."

As elsewhere throughout Ireland, the growing popularity of walking holidays is bringing more people to explore the area, which is rich in historical content. The route brings them through the unique villages of Fenor, Annestown, Dunhill and Stradbally, and offers a range of unspoiled beaches and secluded swimming spots.

The walking groups can enjoy the landscape of the Copper Coast, still much as it was in the last century, without the busy roads, crowded beaches and caravan parks, and high-intensity developments which have overwhelmed so many coastal resort areas.