FOR a vegetarian in a meat-eating family, Christmas is a trial. Everything features meat, or suet, or vegetables which have probably been cooked in animal fats.
For the chef who has to cook for the vegetarian, but who is already under siege from all the work to be done, there has to be an easy answer.
Here it is. The Roulade of Peppers and Aubergines is a modern vegetarian classic, an Australian idea which has been adopted over here by chefs such as Hazel Bourke, of Assolas House, near Kanturk, who found this was the one dish prepared during the year which she could not take off the menu.
Mrs Bourke serves the roulade with some softened goats' cheese - simply whisk the cheese with some cream - and a basil-flavoured oil. The technique described here comes from Simon Hopkinson, and it is invaluable because it can be made the day before.
Roulade of Peppers and Aubergines
4 red peppers
2 large aubergines, stalks removed
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
30 basil leaves, torn into bits
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
Balsamic vinegar
Grill the peppers. When they have blackened on all surfaces put them into a bowl, covered with a plate (this is easier than using a plastic bag, and as the peppers cool the juices collect neatly in the bottom of the bowl). When cool, peel and de-seed the peppers. Meanwhile, slice the aubergines lengthways as thinly as possible. Heat olive oil in a large frying pan to a depth of about 0.5 cm (quarter inch) until very hot but not smoking. Add the aubergine slices and fry until golden brown on both sides, adding more oil if necessary. Remove the slices and drain on absorbent paper as you proceed.
On a spacious work-surface, lay out a large sheet of Clingfilm. In the middle, make a rectangle with the aubergine slices, taking care that they overlap each other slightly. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Evenly distribute the basil leaves and slivers of garlic over the aubergine slices. Sprinkle lightly with balsamic vinegar and cover with the pieces of pepper.
By lifting the edge of the Clingfilm carefully form the ingredients into the shape of a swiss roll, taking care not to trap the Clingfilm inside. Tuck the leading edge of the film underneath the formed roll, twist the ends together like a Christmas cracker and turn in opposite directions. This will tighten and firm up the roll. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.
To serve, take a sharp serrated knife and cut, with Clingfllm intact, into slices at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) thick. Using a fish slice, carefully transfer each slice to individual serving plates. Only now should you remove the collars of Clingfilm.
We need something hot to partner the roulade, and these sweet potatoes with ginger are not merely yummy, they are appositely festive. Instead of mashing them with a masher, as the recipe calls for, you could be modern and try just breaking them up gently with a fork in the saucepan, assimilating the sharp ginger and then the sherry vinegar into the smash, and using smaller amounts of milk.
Sweet Potatoes with Ginger and Sherry Vinegar
2 kg (4 lb) sweet potatoes
A large knob of unsalted butter
6-8 slices fresh ginger, finely chopped
175 ml (6 fl oz) milk 45 ml (3 tablespoons) sherry vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Boil, bake or microwave the potatoes until just soft. Cool, then peel, slice lengthwise and turn out into a large saucepan with the butter and ginger. Heat gently while you mash and mix well with a good dose of salt and pepper. Add the milk a splash at a time, stirring constantly to blend well. Since sweet potatoes vary so much in the amount of water and starch they contain, some will need much more liquid than others. The final consistency should be the same you would aim for with ordinary mashed potatoes. The recipe can be prepared in advance to this point.
When ready to serve, re-heat the mash gently, if necessary, adding more milk if the potatoes have dried out. Add the sherry and stir well, using more if you like a stronger flavour. Serve immediately.