Beijing sees the benefits of a 'Marry Christmas'

I have never been in such good shape with eight days to go to Christmas

I have never been in such good shape with eight days to go to Christmas. At this stage in the season I am usually all partied out, and Christmas Day can't come and go quick enough.

But I have a clear head. I haven't been over-eating. The shops are not crowded. The traffic flows like a dream, and taxis can be had with the same ease as every other month of the year.

Oh, and I was able to get a seat on Friday night in our local, Frank's Place, beside the Workers' Stadium.

Despite the fact that we have perfect weather for Santa's sleighs, with a heavy snow-fall last week, you would never think it was Christmas in Beijing. Ask most Beijingers over 50 about Christmas and you will get a blank look or a shrug of the shoulders.

READ MORE

"Shengdan Jie", as it is known in Chinese, didn't feature at all in China up to 10 years ago. But where there's money to be made the Chinese are rarely behind the pack. And the commercial possibilities of Christmas are starting to be cashed in on.

China's accession to the World Trade Organisation and Beijing's successful bid for the 2008 Olympics is helping to accelerate the country's westernisation. It is inevitable that more and more Chinese, especially the younger generation, will fall under the Christmas spell.

This is our first year away from home for the Christmas build up, and we miss it terribly. Okay, many restaurants and department stores are making an attempt, putting up trees, fairy lights and decorations.

But some of the efforts are not convincing. Not very realistic Santas stand outside shops handing out sweets, and waitresses wear Santa hats in restaurants. Shoppers in one of the biggest markets in Beijing, Hong Qiao, were this week greeted by a big sign "Marry Christmas", instead of Merry Christmas.

There will be no public holiday here for the Christmas period. It's all a bit bewildering for my two children, who have had no difficulty getting into the Christmas spirit in the past.

Yesterday, they were amazed to hear that Xiao Xiao, the 16-year-old daughter of a Chinese friend, would be going to school as normal on Christmas Day.

Xiao Xiao, in turn, was fascinated to hear about the fuss made in Ireland, about Santa Claus, and the story of the Nativity. She said she knew some older teenagers who would be swapping small gifts on Christmas Day. But her family would not be marking the event.

The ever-growing foreign presence in China is having an impact. And the Beijing authorities are looking favourably on any event that encourages the Chinese population to spend money. China remains a nation of great savers and the government has already extended the number of public holidays in the year to encourage people to part with more of their money.

Many Chinese working in multi-national firms find themselves getting caught up in the Christmas revelry of their western colleagues, and are also benefiting from the few days the company closes during Christmas week.

A tiny percentage of wealthy Chinese do celebrate, with artificial trees in their up-market apartments called "trees of light" which are decorated with paper chains, paper flowers and paper lanterns.

Their children hang up muslin stocking in the hope that Dun Che Lao Ren (China's Santa) will fill them with presents.

Although Christianity is not sanctioned in China, there are an estimated 10 million baptised Christians, less than one per cent of the population, who celebrate the birth of Jesus at Christmas time. The popularity of midnight Mass has grown over the past few years among the Christian community with Catholic churches unable to hold the numbers who come out on Christmas Eve. The "underground" weekly Mass at the Canadian embassy has told worshippers they must register in advance to be sure of a place next week. But the majority of the population still remains immune to it all. Li Yan, a producer with CCTV doesn't see why China should embrace Christmas: "Why would we celebrate Christmas here when we have no religion. It wouldn't make any sense".

We went shopping in Beijing's main shopping area this weekend. Wangfujing Street lacked the hustle and bustle of Patrick Street in Cork, or Grafton Street in Dublin, in the mad run-in to Christmas.

Only a small percentage of Beijing's 80-strong Irish community is heading home for Christmas. One is a Montessori teacher, Grainne Barry, from Griffith Avenue in Dublin, who has been living in Beijing since August. She boarded a plane for Dublin yesterday, never looking forward to a Christmas so much. "It's just not the same here" she said ruefully.

I must admit we are pining too to be among the throngs in Dublin searching out that last-minute present, grabbing a coffee in Bewley's, visiting the live animal crib in Dawson Street, and having a pint with friends in the snug in Toner's of Baggot Street .

Roll on the end of the week when we will join the thousands from all over the world who will fly into Dublin Airport for the Christmas holiday.

Mother, see you in Kilkenny on Christmas Eve. Will be home in good time for Midnight Mass. And, yes, cream on your mince pies please.

miriamd@163bj.com