Belfast climber scales Broad Peak

A Belfast man has become the first Irish climber to ascend Broad Peak in the Himalaya, and did so without oxygen or high-altitude…

A Belfast man has become the first Irish climber to ascend Broad Peak in the Himalaya, and did so without oxygen or high-altitude porters. It is part of the preparations of an Irish expedition for its assault on K2, the world's second-highest mountain. Eddie Cooper (37), deputy leader of the Irish K2 expedition, made the ascent of the world's 12thhighest peak two days ago. His fellow team members are making attempts on the 8,047-metre peak this weekend.

Mr Cooper describes himself as house husband and part-time builder and decorator. His climbing partner, Ian Rea, who is a mountaineering instructor from Annalong, Co Down, was forced to turn back short of the summit due to altitude sickness.

Expedition colleagues Paul Dunlop and Donie O'Sullivan, a Queen's University student and a doctor respectively, were due to make their final push yesterday. Team leader Calvin Torrans, who is also from Belfast, is due to make his attempt with Dublin garda sergeant Martin Daly today.

K2 is regarded as more difficult and more dangerous than Everest. The 300-mile approach takes 14 days and can be as hazardous as the peak.

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The K2 expedition has decided to climb without oxygen, the first Irish mountaineering team to do so. The six climbers have decades of experience. The attempt comes five years after the first Irish ascent of Everest.

Before leaving Ireland last month, the expedition was told the Sports Council was not granting promised funds as the venture did not meet conditions attached to international competition. While climbing is not a competitive sport, the Sports Council has funded expeditions before.

Lorna Siggins

Lorna Siggins

Lorna Siggins is the former western and marine correspondent of The Irish Times