Blake's Progress

Anybody who enjoys the atmosphere of Ireland's great classic pubs will probably know of Blakes of the Hollow in Enniskillen - …

Anybody who enjoys the atmosphere of Ireland's great classic pubs will probably know of Blakes of the Hollow in Enniskillen - a wonderful, dark-varnished, snug-lined retreat in the hands of the Blake family since 1887. Less well-known is the fact that Pat Blake is developing a fine wine business - and in this case fine means very fine indeed. He has, for instance, managed to secure an Irish allocation from Quintarelli, the famously fastidious producer of traditional Amarone, whose wines bring tears to the eyes of the cognoscenti.

At a recent tasting of the full Quintarelli range in Fermanagh, the Amarone Riserva 1988 and two Reciotos (the 1988 and Riserva 1990) were thrilling proof of this quiet Veronese artisan's ability to conjure wines of awesome power and depth. Even his basic Valpolicella is a revelation. More details from Pat Blake, tel 08 013657 48203.