SO mightily does Mountpleasant Elizabeth Hunter Valley Semillon, McWilliams, 1994 (outlets above, usually £11.99) tower above the rest that, even though it was a Bottle of the Week earlier this year, it simply has to fill the slot again. If you haven't tried it before, be warned: it's very, very different. Sniffing it, you might think of preserved lemons or roasted cashews. Those flavours come through powerfully in an unoaked wine which tastes rich yet feels miraculously light and fresh in the mouth - and they linger beautifully. Tuck it away for a few years and it will grow smokier, richer, even more alluring. You don't often find great classic wines at this price.