Picking a single bottle out of that lot is as tricky as swallowing some of the duds. But I'm casting the die for Moulin de Gassac Elise, Vin de Pays de l'Herault, 1998 (all 15 O'Briens outlets, £7.95), partly because I love its smooth but lively personality and partly to counter the reflex that makes heads turn instantly to the New World for reliable names.
This southern French red - a blend of Merlot and Syrah - has vibrancy and individuality, something a lot of bland brands know nothing about. Thank Aime Guibert, tireless lion of the Languedoc. And the weather that helped make the best vintage of the decade.