If I were Gay Byrne, I'd magic up a slender little bottle of Lustau Solera Reserva Manzanilla Papirusa (outlets above, half bottle £5.99-£6.99) for all you readers in the audience, so that you might succumb forthwith to sherry's charms. As things stand, all I can do is urge you to buy it. I can't imagine that subtle lemon-and-almond freshness and that long, gently warming finish will leave you cold. Or even with a cold. Prepare to salivate.